La Josie

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Inside you’ll find handsome wood floors, fulsome tufted banquettes and a robin’s egg blue neon sign that says “Hoy por ti" (the beginning of a Spanish idiom about paying things forward. The kitchen is led by executive Saul Chavez, a Mercadito vet. Chavez and his crew dish up supple, house-made tortillas that waft splendid corn perfume. The fillings include a silky veal cheek barbacoa ($14) and tender cochinita pibil ($14), featuring a sinus-clearing habanero salsa that gives you a serious chile high. The carbon-flecked al pastor ($14) is crispy, juicy and riddled with smoky pineapple. Ceviche is made to order.