CLOSED: Accanto

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Update: Accanto closed in early 2012.

If you think fine dining doesn't exist on this industrial-looking block of Milwaukee Avenue in Logan Square, think again, says Maria Rubino, the first-time restaurateur behind this contemporary American- and Italian-influenced spot. Step inside and you'll be transported into a sexy, South Beach-esque dining room with plush white wall panels with antique mirrors. But don't let the loungey look fool you into believing it's just another pretty face: Milan-born executive chef Domenico Acampora has a culinary pedigree to back it up. Start with lobster bisque, presented tableside over chunks of lobster meat and mango, or a pan-roasted venison chop, accompanied by herbed risotto cakes, petit arugula salad and a dark chocolate-juniper berry reduction. Dinner standouts include short-rib risotto simmered in bone marrow cream with lemon zest, and ravioli with eggplant-mozzarella mousse. A hearty list of fine wines and finer whiskeys, as well as champagne and various cocktails, provide ample options for pairings.