Before I tell you that we loved our first visit to
The Gage (click for address, maps, Reader Reviews), which sounds like some old San Francisco gay bar but is actually a week-old gastropub across from Millennium Park, I should define gastropub.
But I can't.
It's one of those vague, trendy terms that PR types toss around like yesterday's heirloom tomatoes. If forced, we suppose you can consider a gastropub a regular pub with better food. And maybe a better beer list. And decor that weaves traditional elements with big-city finesse. And, yeah, it's probably a bit more expensive than the corner pub too.
And since that defines The Gage, we'll go with it.
Yet this gastropub goes beyond trendy. In a downtown dining and retail landscape increasingly dominated by soulless corporate chains, The Gage already feels like it has some homegrown heart. Is it ready for the rush of summertime tourists? Probably not. The biggest issue right now is that staff is clearly undertrained--but we still think this place shows big promise.
Funny thing is, a big part of The Gage's charm is decidedly not homegrown--co-owner Billy Lawless, a native of County Galway, Ireland, and a Chicago resident for the past nine years. You'll see him see darting about the place, chatting with customers and throwing out wry one-liners here and there. He originally was involved with The Grafton, an upscale Irish pub in Lincoln Square, and he opened this new place with his dad, Billy Sr., who also owns The Irish Oak.
Walls of mossy green subway tiles with crisp black trim dominate the interior. We loved the masculine touches like black-lacquered industrial doors and steel pendant lamps. A bustling front bar leads to a slightly more serene dining area with big, banquette seating. The place makes a big pitch for large groups and corporate events--a basement bar and dining area even offer A/V equipment for that must-see PowerPoint presentation.
The chef is Dirk Flanigan, who served as opening chef for Blue Water Grill, from New York-based mega-operator B.R. Guest, as well as local spots like Meritage. He's developed a something-for-everyone international menu with hip, urban flair. You'll find vindaloos, carpaccio, and phrases that food freaks adore like "citrus caviar gelee" and "basil-marinated escargot." On the other hand, you'll find words that put regular Joes at ease: "hamburger" and "skirt steak."
Occasionally Gage goes for both luxe and lowbrow: It offers both a $14 USDA Prime burger with camembert and onion marmalade and a $10 Angus burger with tomato, lettuce and onions. We tried the more expensive one and think it stands up to--but doesn't quite surpass--that famous
Park Grill burger you can get across the street.
Beyond that, the menu has the unexpected (roast saddle of Elk, $33), the elevated (battered dipped turbot as one half of the fish and chips, $15) and the everyday (roasted Amish chicken, $20; chicken noodle soup, $7).
The broad-spectrum approach explains why The Gage already has started packing in the loosened-tie afterwork crowd. A good beer selection doesn't hurt, either: 30 by the bottle (try the Ayinger hefeweizen, $8) and 10 drafts, including the holy trinity of Bass, Harp and Guinness.
Of course, you'll find most of the latter at any Irish pub. But the how many can you pair with carmalized lobster ($15) or smoked haddock that's topped with caviar ($12)?
For a deeper look at what I thought about the menu, check out the
The Extrovert, the Metromix blog.
Chris LaMorte is the metrmomix dining producer.
