Pixar didn’t take any chances on the cooking scenes in “Ratatouille,” sourcing acclaimed chef Thomas Keller (The French Laundry, Per Se) to consult on rodent-chef Remy’s spot-on dishes. Looks like it paid off: The film took home the best animated feature film award at this year's Oscars. But while Remy and crew have catapulted to Hollywood fame, what’s become of the flick’s humble namesake? It’s still as tasty as ever. We’ve tracked down four local versions of the Provencal stew that would make Remy proud.
Kiki’s Bistro
Technically, the movie version of ratatouille that Keller developed is a variation—something called confit byaldi—involving painstakingly sliced vegetables baked under parchment. That sort of preparation might ruffle some feathers over at Kiki’s, where general manager and long-time ratatouille-eater Pascal Berthoumieux swears by an authentic, rustic version featuring carefully diced vegetables and generous Provencal seasoning. Options abound: Order it as a side ($5.50), baked into a rich tart dotted with goat cheese ($8) or under a flavorful rack of lamb ($27.50).
Bistrot Margot
The chef at this adored Old Town bistro, Joe Doppes, recalls making ratatouille early in his career—an inevitability considering all the vegetable chopping he had to do practicing his essential knife skills. Doppe’s version calls for nicely caramelized eggplant, onions, garlic, red peppers and a cooked tomato “fondue,” braised together in the oven with plenty of thyme and bay. The flavor-packed mixture makes a sensible bed for a juicy mustard, parsley and breadcrumb-crusted rack of lamb ($21.95).
Cafe Penelope
This tiny restaurant was quietly turning out tasty thin-crust pizzas and creative sides in the shadow of the United Center long before Pixar digitally rendered anything, let alone chef Remy. In fact, until Ratatouille hit theaters, owner Pam Holden’s customers were a little skeptical of the unpronounceable veggie topping she swore made a great pizza even better. Her Ratatouille Pizza ($10.95-$18.50) now has a devoted following. The tasty ratatouille, loaded with hunks of eggplant, comes sandwiched between sauce and cheese on crispy thin crust.
La Creperie
The kitchen at this Lincoln Park staple also one-ups the classic version, folding ratatouille ($9) into a toothsome buckwheat crepe. That’s not to say La Creperie’s recipe can’t stand on its own; the stew is a chunky, flavorful mixture of roasted eggplant, three kinds of bell peppers, onions, tomatoes, crushed black pepper and rosemary. And, in a Remy-esque improvisational move, you can add whatever you’d like to the party, including ham, chunks of goat cheese or gooey Emmenthaler.
[ Fred Schlatter is a Metromix special contributor. ] metromix@tribune.