Two Way Grill

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This Irving Park greasy spoon, which has been around for decades, serves up no-frills fare 24/7. Don't come expecting table service or even a menu--there's stool seating at the counter, where you can watch the grill man prep your order, and the offerings are posted on the walls. The staff is entertaining, sometimes sarcastic, sometimes borderline surly--but that's part of the charm. Locals clamor for biscuits and gravy (offered 11 p.m.-11 a.m. only) cheeseburgers, Denver omelets and corned beef hash. Heartier fare includes a pork chop dinner with mashed potatoes and gravy and that grammar school hot lunch mainstay, franks and beans. Be forewarned: Two Way is cash only, substitutes are a no-no and there's an additional charge for carryout orders.