This restaurant sits next to an expressway, but it's designed to make you feel you're somewhere in rural Italy. The low, wood-beamed ceilings and painted ivy and street scenes on the walls in the bar make the place cozy. In the bar, which has a not-too-loud TV, you will find traders in sneakers and shorts alongside other businessmen smoking cigars and jawing on cellular phones. The dining room is more formal and dimly lit. An old dining car from Wisconsin sits on one side of the building and is also functional. There is another bar and dining area on the second floor, where you can sit out on a private balcony. The wine list is about 80 percent Italian.