Good food that is freshly and quickly prepared has made this North Center spot a favorite with the neighborhood crowd since 1979. Chef Chanpen Ratana cooks according to family recipes and she's keen on authenticity. "I serve whatever I like," she says. "We don't cook for Americans who are afraid of spices." That said, Ratana will heat up or cool down any dish you want. Service is speedy, and though the dining room is ornate with Thai art and decoration, it's not stuffy.