Sushi-San

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Like its predecessor, Sushi-San embraces a hip minimalism with its black-ceilinged, brick-walled, dimly lit interiors; hard wood seats and tables and a relentless hip-hop soundtrack; a cute and smart beverage program (one cocktail is called La Croix-ing Tiger) and a built-for-speed, compact menu filled with inside jokes (maki rolls are designated Old School, New School or Summer School; sizzling rice dishes are “straight outta’ the Josper oven”). Sushi-San offers four distinct dining experiences. At most tables, you’ll peruse the single-page menu and choose among various nigiri, sashimi and charcoal-grilled items. Conspicuous highlights include the Tako Taco, featuring soft octopus, avocado, fried garlic and spicy aioli gathered in “shells” of crispy nori; sprinkled with a bit of fresh lime and topped with sliced Fresno chiles (which deliver convincing levels of heat), these taco-ish treats burst with complementary flavors. On the other end of the umami spectrum is furikake scallop, a soothing concoction of sliced scallops roasted in furikake butter, with a bright, yuzu-juice finish. Beef ’n Bop, a variation of bibimbap, offers a cast-iron plate loaded with sizzling rice, short-rib meat, caramelized maitake mushrooms, pineapple and crowned with a soft-cooked egg (the rice bits fused to the iron plate add dark flavors and crunchy texture; don’t forget to scrape them up). Vietnamese pork, cooked on the robata grill, presents pieces of Berkshire pork neck tossed in a fragrant and moderately spicy mix of Thai chilies, fish sauce, lemongrass and cilantro.