Sol de Mexico

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Geno Bahena (Real Tenochtitlan, Chilpancingo, Ixcapuzalco) doesn't man the stoves at this Belmont Cragin spot, but brother-in-law Carlos Tello and Bahena's mole-making mama Clementina Flores, who both clocked kitchen time under Geno, carry on the family tradition. Expect dishes such as lamb in kicky mole negro, tilapia in herby mole verde and pork in spicy-sweet mole manchamanteles. Smaller appetites can go for a chicken taco, torta or burrito laced with mole. Grilled skirt steak in ranchero salsa and steak fajitas are a few of the non-mole selections. Be sure to save room for the house-made flan. Fans of Bahena's now-shuttered Chilpancingo will love the decor; the colorful space is fitted with artwork and table settings from the restaurant.