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The look of Pearl's Place, a sterile, great big rec-room of a restaurant attached to a motel it has no association with, makes you worry that they serve fake soul food like those places in Manhattan that hang tractor parts on the wall and put too much liquid smoke in the food. On the contrary, the food("Southern Soul with a Touch of Creole," as it's billed on the menu) is really good and does not smack of motel dining at all. After having a terrific lunch of fried chicken (cooked to order) with rich macaroni and cheese and collards and some of the best fried catfish we've ever tasted, we can't wait to go back for the breakfast buffet some Sunday morning before everybody gets out of church. And next time we'll try Pearl's crab cakes and the sweet potato pie.