"There is only one fine dining Polish restaurant in Chicago," declares Marek Juszczak, maitre d' at Lutnia. "Chicago is the biggest Polish community outside of Poland. When people come here, they are looking for a place like this." Whatever else Lutnia is, it is a rarity--most Polish restaurants on the Northwest Side are buffets, and wouldn't dream of serving roast goose with sauerkraut and pear, or roast pheasant a la King Sobieski. Lutnia has a classical pianist, tableside flambe service and planters dripping with ferns. The white piano sits on a platform overlooking the dining room. "Some people say we look like a funeral home," Juszczak says. "Other people think it's beautiful."