When you're driving around looking for someplace to eat, the intersection of Diversey, Elston and Western looks like a good place from which to head off elsewhere. But if you want Chinese food and don't feel like going all the way to Chinatown, try Lee's, a dimly lit diner with a Cantonese menu. Pick a booth beneath an incredibly ornate lantern set aglow by a hidden incandescent bulb, the only nod toward traditional Chinese restaurant decor on the premises. There's a full selection of beer, wine and liquor. The staff is curmudgeonly but good-humored.