Le Vichyssois

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More than 20 years ago, Bernard Cretier opened this country-French restaurant in what was then a very remote corner of the Chicagoland area. Though still a considerable drive from the city, Le Vichyssois continues to justify the trip, by virtue of its attentively prepared, top-quality cooking (at relatively modest prices),and lovely surroundings that, with their off-white and silver colors, have the look of expensive wedding gift-wrap. European dessert service--a wheeled cart from which patrons select up to three desserts--is worth a trip in itself.