You can spend a lot of time considering the absurdly long menu at this Chinatown sibling of Lao Shanghai and Lao Sze Chuan, so allow us to cut to the chase: Order the Beijing duck (a.k.a. Peking duck). It's a three-course bargain feast, featuring soup, a salad and Mandarin pancakes containing crispy duck skin, meat and vegetables, which are assembled tableside. The room is pleasant enough with bright yellow walls and an out-of-this-world wall sculpture. But daters, be warned: Sitting by the windows subjects you to the ghastly green glare of neon, which is never a good look.