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It's rare to find a new concept among all the up and coming restaurants, but Kimski has found a balanced blend of all things Polish and Korean. The dining room is an airy warehouse-like space outfitted with bright yellow industrial stools, a sleek wood bar and mod-style booths. Maria’s Standard is the perfect example: a fat, smoky Polish sausage bursting with garlic and spice that’s remixed with a soulful, rice-perfumed, soju-infused mustard and tangy kimchi kraut. Then there are the vegetarian potskis ($7), aka deep-fried dumplings, which are a cross between a potsticker and pierogi. They’re packed with earthy shiitake, zingy sauerkraut and crumbly farmer cheese. Each pocket ends on a creamy note courtesy of smoked soy sauce- and sesame oil-infused sour cream. The bulgogi cheesesteak—a weekly special made with Kim’s mom’s marinated grilled ribeye recipe—is very Korean, but skews less Polish and more Philadelphia with a blanket of Muenster cheese and golden caramelized onions. Instead of insipid green bell peppers, Kim sprinkles the bun-swaddled sandwich with bright, grassy ribbons of shishito pepper. A stroke of gochujang butter puts the whole thing over the top. A chalkboard menu lists 24 draft beer choices, an ample selection of lagers, bocks and IPAs from usual local suspects such as Three Floyds Brewing Co. and Goose Island Beer Co. as well many other regional American and European breweries. Still, I stuck with the sodas, which included a sweet, pecan-infused root beer from Fest Cola and an elderflower and rose sparkling lemonade (both $1.99 each) that tasted like a refreshing mashup of prosecco and rosé spiked with lemon.