Jade Court

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The owners are Eddy Cheung and his daughter, Carol, who owned and operated Phoenix restaurant. The Cheungs didn’t do much to the dining room of the brick-exposed building in the center of all things Italian food.  They refinished the oak floors and oak crown molding, and left the pressed-tin ceilings in place. A few booths departed, along with the red-and-white checked tablecloths. A few pieces of abstract art and a treasured piece of Chinese calligraphy hang on the repainted walls. The menu is typical of most Chinese menus — dozens of poultry, pork, beef, seafood and noodle dishes — but the way to order, as it was for in-the-know Phoenix regulars, is to ask what the kitchen is up to that evening. This is an especially fail-safe option when Carol Cheung is on the floor (which is most of the time), because she’ll come up with suggestions you might never have selected otherwise. On a smaller scale, there’s chopstick-tender beef tenderloin in a house sauce of Worcestershire, tomato and vinegar; and braised fish (boneless grouper, flash-fried and finished with ginger and scallion, over tofu).There are the usual almond cookies and fortune cookies at dessert, but if you’re craving something sweet, consider the fresh-fruit smoothies, which are thankfully light on added sugar.Lunch is a very good time to visit the restaurant. In addition to the budget-friendly specials (soup, egg roll, fried-rice entree, $10.95) and Hong Kong-syle cafe rice dishes ($9.95), Jade Court offers dim sum 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day (closed Tuesday).