CLOSED: Great Lake

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With its airy, chewy crust, the pizza at this tiny sliver of spot on an Andersonville side street is certainly not Chicago style. It's not trying to replicate Italian authenticity, either. Instead, you'll find a very limited menu emphasizing regionally produced and small-batch ingredients. There are only about five pizzas available, usually priced from $15 to $21. Though the pies change with product availability, selections might include tomato with hand-pulled mozzarella and marjoram; tomato, mozzarella and sopressata; cremini, goat cheese and fragrant Tellicherry black pepper; or smoked bacon, creme fraiche, onion and sage. The space is spare (there's only one eight-seat communal table) but not stark. Great Lake also stocks boutique dry goods like Cream Nut peanut butter from Grand Rapids, Mich., and designer housewares.