Entente

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The front room, featuring soft gray-colored walls and sharp modern planters stuffed with succulents and pussy willow branches, has a zen feel. Behind is along, narrow room filled with cold exposed brick, unsightly baseboard heaters, and glass pendant lamps. The dining area offers a view of Fisher and crew at work in the kitchen. Chicken liver ($13) is now more ubiquitous than pork belly on restaurant menus, but Fisher’s liver is pureed to velvet in a Vitamix Vita-Prep blender, leaving it smoother than all other contenders. It’s topped with a ring of winey Concord grape jelly and tiny tufts of salty sweet pumpkin seed butter, and it comes with tangy house-baked charred sourdough made with rye flour. The "wedge" salad features crisp icy leaves are ringed with thick lardons of salty slab bacon, creamy heart-stopping funky cambozola blue cheese and sweet sun gold tomato jam infused with white plum. The whole thing is dusted with tomato powder, dehydrated tomato full of mouth-delighting umami. Sprigs of dill pop and refresh each bite, and a moat of mayo- and sour cream-based herb-infused green goddess dressing rests in the middle of the lettuce cup. Instead of watery sodagun Coke, honey-roasted figs and dried shiitake mushrooms are infused into a simple syrup spiked with tarragon, resulting in the Figgy Shrooms soda.