Café Marie-Jeanne

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André Soltner, the legendary French chef who led the kitchen of New York’s influential Lutece, used to judge a cook by how he made an omelet. By that standard, Café Marie-Jeanne’s owner and chef Mike Simmons, who whips up a glistening yolk-rich curd stuffed with trout and dolloped with a cloud of dill-spiked sour cream, would probably be one of Soltner’s favorite humans. Even if that weren’t true, once you try this eggy masterpiece ($12), you’ll be tempted to make it a staple of every weekend.