Appellation

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The cheese shop, long a favorite in the Loop, Lakeview and Chicago French Market for its vast and varied selection, opens its latest location this week in Andersonville — this one with a restaurant big enough to merit a separate name. Walk in to find, on your left, the usual Pastoral: take-home cheeses, charcuterie and wine, plus a counter-service menu serving breakfast pastries and sandwiches for lunch. But on your right, a racetrack bar with welcoming wooden stools is next to a brick wall lined with a soft brown leather banquette and tables. This is Appellation, a 75-seat, evenings-only space putting out bar snacks, entrees and desserts from chef Jesse Williams, formerly of Wicker Park's Birchwood Kitchen