This update was published Oct. 22, 2004. 
3 stars (out of four)
Rating key:
4: Outstanding
3: Excellent
2: Very good
1: Good
Satisfactory
Unsatisfactory
Things are outwardly the same at Coco Pazzo (click for address, maps, hours) these days; the jazzed-up loft space is as sophisticated looking as it was when the restaurant opened nearly 13 years ago, and the menu is still a reliable repository of lusty Tuscan cuisine. The internal difference is that general manager Jack Weiss is now principal owner, and chef Tony Priolo, on board for six years, is now a partner. "There's a new energy, new life here," Priolo says, gushing.
The food, however, remains steadfastly rustic Italian. Risotto is a specialty here, and whether paired with osso buco or topped with prosciutto-wrapped prawns, the results are outstanding. Homemade pastas are generally rich and soul-nurturing, while gently handled fresh fish are paragons of perfection via simplicity. And the quarterly menus make room for short-lived seasonal specials, such as delicate zucchini blossoms stuffed with sweet fontina cheese and a hint of anchovy (this special will be around for another week or two, max).
I generally don't make a big deal out of the contents of the bread basket, but Coco Pazzo's homemade selection is worth noting--particularly those addictive parmesan-laced bread sticks.
Coco Pazzo means "crazy chef," a label that hasn't fit this solid performer in quite some time. But that's about the only thing that doesn't make sense here. Recommended: Risotto with prawns, veal ravioli, roasted sea bass.
Phil Vettel is the Chicago Tribune restaurant critic.
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