Cheap Eats: Top-Notch Beefburger

By Judy Hevrdejs

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2 forks (out of four)

Fork ratings key:
4: Don't miss it
3: One of the best
2: Very good
1: Good

In the history of the great American hamburger, somewhere between the CD-flat patties of fast-food land and the 2-inch-thick behemoths stuffed on a bun at steakhouses, there is the classic version served at Top-Notch Beefburger in Chicago's Beverly neighborhood.

The burgers, made from fresh-ground round steak -- not the shaped-and-shipped-three-weeks-ago variety -- arrive accompanied by fries, proclaimed on the menu as "pre-WWII style french fries." Add a milkshake to the order and your taste buds will travel back to the happy days of bobby socks, high school and rock 'n' roll. In fact, Top-Notch Beefburger was around when rock 'n' roll was born, with the Soulian family serving up burgers and fries since 1942.

The burgers are the reason most people head to Top-Notch, but those who avoid red meat will find salads, tuna melts and fish on the menu, too. The young staff is on the ball, whirling up milkshakes and stacking platters -- the classic beige plastic diner variety -- up their arm then hauling them to the crowd that fills tables in this laid-back eatery.

Mountain-waterfall paintings adorn the wood-paneled walls, joining hanging plants and piped-in music (a la the Andrews Sisters) as mood setters. A counter with stools dominates the restaurant; a takeout counter and cooler vie for space in the entryway.

All that is irrelevant when it comes to the matter at hand: indulging one's appetite for burgers. Our flavorful and juicy burgers, arriving on tasty buns, earned resolutions from tablemates to return again. Burgers are available in "basic," "deluxe" and "specialty king size" versions.

The basic is just that. The quarter-pounder costs $2.80, the half-pounder (dubbed king size) $4.45, and the three-quarter-pounder (dubbed super king size) $5.70. The deluxe version -- in those three weights and priced at $4.45, $6.20 and $7.50 -- comes with lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, onions, pickles and fries. Add cheese -- sharp American, Swiss, Monterey jack, jalapeno jack or mozzarella -- to any of the above and the price jumps 25 cents on the quarter-pound versions and 50 cents on the half- and three-quarter-pounders.

The three specialty king-size burgers (from $6.80 to $7.50) include a Western (bacon and cheese), Mexican (guacamole and cheese) and Italian (marinara sauce and cheese). We loved the burger patty melt ($3.55), which oozes cheese from between thick slices of caraway rye.

And those fries? They are crisp and addictive and have only one competitor on the menu: the big, plump, fragrant onion rings ($1.75).

We enjoyed the slightly sweet version of the tuna salad done as a melt ($3.25) and ordered the meal's primary vegetables (beyond potatoes and onions, of course) in a Greek salad (on special at $4.25) that arrived with the requisite olives, feta cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers and cool crisp lettuce.

Our red-meat-averse diner opted for a turkey burger ($3.30) and was happy with the flavorful poultry patty. Other options include chicken breast sandwiches ($3.35 to $3.60).

Several simple sandwiches (grilled cheese, BLT, etc.) fill out the menu. Heartier appetites might opt for a platter that comes with soup or coleslaw. We tried the popular ocean perch ($5.55), and were pleased with the amount of lightly breaded and nicely fried fish, the potatoes and slaw, but less than enthusiastic with the bland, brown gravy on top of the potatoes. Other platters include a hot beef sandwich ($5.05) and two grilled boneless pork chops ($6.40). The meaty, spicy chili ($1.50 cup, $1.95 bowl) found fans at our table, while the soup of the day ($1 or $1.60) was a disappointing tomato-rice mix that was more beef than tomato.

We didn't try breakfast, but Top-Notch pulls in a crowd for its eggs (two with toast and jelly, $2.25), pancakes (four cakes, $2.80) and sandwiches (bacon and egg, $1.95).

What do you drink when you go to Top-Notch? There are soft drinks, etc., but if you're ditching the diet for a few hours, go for a milkshake (chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, Oreo). Shakes are $1.75 (12 ounces); $2.95 (22 ounces, delivered in its metal mixing container). Make it a malt for 10 cents more. You could order pecan pie ($1.65) for dessert, but you'll have more fun scooping -- or sipping -- the yummy Oreo version of a milkshake, the perfect finish to a retro feast.

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Top-Notch Beefburger Shop
2116 W. 95th St.
773-445-7218

Hours: 7 a.m to 8 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; breakfast served until 11 a.m.; closed Sun.
Entree prices: $2.80-$8
Credit cards: Not accepted
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible