Cheap Eats: Garlic & Chili Healthy Thai Cuisine

3 forks (out of four)

Fork ratings key:
4: Don't miss it
3: One of the best
2: Very good
1: Good

First impressions Although located in a transient hotel just north of Division Street, this clean spot transcends the surroundings. Its cute, small room holds only five wooden tables. Cheery colors of pale yellow and green wash over the walls and framed artwork of all kinds of fruits and vegetables rest upon them. A small window to the kitchen offers a partial view of the action. Informative placemats promote Thailand's healthful cuisine with photos and descriptions of important flavorings, from limes to lemon grass.

On the plate A typical, though abbreviated, menu includes the classics we've seen in every Thai restaurant: pad Thai, green curry, satay and more. But a list of daily specials introduces more intriguing fare, such as hoisin-glazed salmon or crispy squid with sweet and hot sauce. Portions are generous and garnished nicely. A lunch special includes cabbage tofu soup or spring roll with any entree.

At your service Whether you are there for takeout orders or to eat in, waiting is no problem. The kitchen staff quickly fries up your order and the waiter delivers it promptly. Water glasses get refilled before they reach the half-empty mark. Takeout orders are well-packaged to avoid any leaking.

Second helpings The green curry chicken, though heavy on the coconut milk, has bright flavors of basil, chicken and fresh bamboo shoots that shine through the richness. Plan to take some home along with any remainder in the side of rice. The hot basil pork offers a tasty brown sauce with a medium spicy kick, and lots of onions, straw mushrooms, basil and orange and green bell peppers. (You can just feel the vitamins at work.) A typical beef with broccoli, which seems more Chinese-influenced than Thai, includes tender slices of beef with sweet carrots and slightly crunchy broccoli. The crispy squid, a special appetizer, has a tempura-like coating that is crisp and light and a delicious dipping sauce that combines sweet honey with spicy chilies. Too bad the rings of squid were a bit too chewy.

Take a pass Spring rolls are ordinary, with tofu, egg and lots of bean sprouts; they offer little flavor, but the brown plum sauce helps a bit. The cabbage soup with tofu lacks flavor, except for salt. Pad Thai noodles absorb too much sauce, so come to the table an unappealing brown color with overcooked egg pieces.

Thirst quenchers Thai iced tea and coffee and the usual array of soda drinks are available.

Extras Delivery in the neighborhood and catering are offered. Free appetizers with delivery order of $10.

Price range Appetizers, $2.95-$4.95; soups and salads, $1.75-$5.95; noodle and rice dishes, $5.75-$6.95; main courses, $5.95-$8.95; desserts, $1.50-$2; drinks, $1-$1.75.

Carol Mighton Haddix is the Tribune food editor.

Originally published Jan. 21, 2003.

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