Cheap Eats: Celtic Crown

1 fork (out of four)

Fork ratings key:
4: Don't miss it
3: One of the best
2: Very good
1: Good

First impressions
Nothing much about the exterior of this 2-month-old corner bar/grill would lure diners, but once you're inside, it's attractive enough. The Irish theme extends from the menu to the posters, photos and to the china displayed in hanging shelves above the rectangular bar. A large stone fireplace warms one wall, and multiple hanging TV screens offer many sports channels going at once. Tables are tall, round and require stools. A pool table takes up too much space, but not, we suppose, if you love pool.

On the plate
It's bountiful bar fare at bargain prices, with a special dish for every day of the week, from Irish meat loaf to a corned beef dinner. "All-you-can-eat" days are Friday and Sunday, when brew-battered fish and chips and penne pasta marinara with meatballs, respectively, are on the menu. Typical appetizers include chicken fingers, buffalo wings and quesadillas. "Banger crispers" are grilled English sausages served on toast with caramelized onions for an appetizer. The three entrees: New York strip steak, pasta Gorgonzola and baby back ribs. Burgers and other sandwiches complete the menu.

At your service
Elfin waitresses serve the food quickly and efficiently with a cheery "Here you go, sweetie."

Second helpings
The half-pound burger is very good, and comes on a toasted bun with cheese of your choice, lettuce and tomatoes and a dill pickle on the side. Decent but ordinary "freedom" fries, tater tots or thickly battered but tasty onion rings come with sandwiches. For the chicken sandwich you can choose among blackened, buffalo, grilled or fried; we tried the grilled version--a half breast arrived hot and juicy on a bun and was seasoned just right. The back ribs are meaty enough, but they would benefit from more seasoning; they get only a smattering of Sweet Baby Ray's BBQ sauce just before serving.

Take a pass
The 10-ounce "prime" New York strip steak is OK, but one wonders what the prime really means. The meat is lean, with little flavor other than a vague smokiness. The Guinness-battered shrimp appetizer mates a thick, soggy coating to watery shrimp.

Thirst quenchers
Choose from an array of special drinks, including the "four-leaf clover" (with Bacardi Limon & Light) and "lucky leprechaun" (vodka with melon, pineapple and orange juices). Half-price drinks every Wednesday and daily beer specials flow.

Extras
Private rooms can accommodate parties. Takeout costs an additional 50 cents-$2.

Price range
Appetizers, $2.25-$4.95; sandwiches, $2.95-$4.50; entrees, $1.95-$8.95; side dishes, $1-$1.25; drinks, $1.50-$6.

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