Originally published December 3, 2003
2 forks (out of four)
Fork ratings key:
4: Don't miss it
3: One of the best
2: Very good
1: Good
First impressions
A full-service restaurant, decorated in lively style with hanging red lanterns, an almost life-size wooden figure of a horse pulling a cart, a running fountain and decorative plants.
On the plate
Traditional Vietnamese fare, with a menu offering generally helpful English translations. Specials are handwritten on a page and only sporadically translated. You may spend some time asking for help before you order. In fact, go ahead: One entry described as "meatballs" turned out to be a smoked homemade sausage.
At your service
Servers are extremely friendly, though we encountered a few language barriers. After watching sugar cane being freshly pulped for juice in one corner of the restaurant, we asked for the sugar cane drink listed on the menu. The server told us that the juice was only for ice cream and there wasn't any more left. After a few more tries, we gave up in confusion.
The owner, however, speaks very good English and was not only helpful in ordering, but he also showed us the proper way to eat certain items, such as wrapping food in lettuce leaves and dunking into seasoned dips.
Second helpings
Go for the crisp rice pancake, served quite hot and folded over a filling of shrimp, sliced pork, bean sprouts and other chopped vegetables. The traditional pho came to the table as a steaming savory beef broth loaded with delicate rice noodles, herbs and thinly sliced rare beef to be added to the broth and cooked on the spot. Slivers of almost jerky-style beef, tossed with shredded green mango, was a recommendation from the owner and an unexpected hit.
Take a pass
Although the catfish stew came with an impressive array of vegetable garnishes to be thrown into the broth, the fish pieces, cut crossways instead of lengthwise, proved to be a bony mouthful.
Thirst quenchers
Although the restaurant doesn't have a liquor license, BYO beer and wine are welcome. A server brought out a bucket of ice for the wine and provided glasses and offered to open the bottle, all without a corkage fee. The specialties of the house lean more toward fruit shakes and fruit juice drinks; you also can go all out and order beverages as exotic as artichoke juice and mung bean shake.
Price range
Appetizers and soups, $1.50-$4.95; main courses, $3.95-$6.95; desserts, $1.50-$1.95; drinks, and shakes, $1-$2.95
