Brunch at Citizen Bar

It's like a Roman holiday -- with mimosas

By Chris LaMorte

August 31, 2007


Brunch at Citizen Bar
Photos:
Citizen Bar Citizen Bar Citizen Bar Citizen Bar
Brunch time: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday

Cost: $15, with mimosas

The scene: Sad, but true: This is the unofficial last weekend of summer. Sure, there'll be more warm, sunny weekends in the coming weeks, but they'll all be overshadowed by thoughts of chilly fall temps to come. So we say make the most of your long weekend at one of our favorite outdoor spaces in the city, the rooftop deck at River North's Citizen Bar. There isn't much of a view (unless you're a fan of parking lots), but we can't think of a better way to send off summer in style than a mimosa brunch in the sun. The relatively new mimosa brunch special already attracts a healthy-sized crowd that includes everyone from neighborhood empty nesters to groups of singles looking for a place to rehash the night before. The best part: a $15 prix-fixe option that gets you a brunch entree and refills on your mimosa. Since mimosas usually run $7 each, after you down two, it's like getting everything else free.

The cuisine: At a laid-back bar like this, owners could probably get away with setting out some warming trays, filling them with a heap of scrambled eggs and bacon, and calling it a day. But Citizen, thankfully, puts a bit more class--and effort--into the affair by whipping up dishes that send brunch favorites on a Roman holiday. The ham, egg and cheese sandwich, for example, uses high-end imported ingredients such as San Danielle prosciutto and super-flavorful grana padano, a slow-ripened Italian cow's milk cheese ($9 a la carte). And the frittatas ($8) allow you choose from ingredients such as wild mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, pancetta, tapenades and other off-the-beaten path options. If you're in the mood for sweets, try the Citizen waffles--they're topped with organic honey-butter, toasted almonds and fior di latte gelato ($7).

Better than a mimosa: At this price? Nothing. But if you insist, try a cherry bellini ($7), a spin on the usual peach variety.

The wait: None.

Loved it: Amaretto French Toast ($8), smothered in amaretto-soaked cherries and apricots.

Hated it: The service. The menu is a bit on the gourmet side, and servers could use more training about what they're serving.

[ Chris LaMorte is the Metromix dining producer. ] clamorte@tribune.com

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