First Look: Mercat a la Planxa

It’s turning out to be a banner year for Chicago’s hotel restaurants.

Last month, Trump International Hotel and Tower debuted its 16th-floor dining destination, Sixteen. The ultra-posh space has killer skyline views, top-notch cuisine and tabs high enough to make you dizzy.

If you’re looking for something a bit more down to earth—figuratively and literally—you’re in luck. Spanish-inflected Mercat a la Planxa opened Saturday as part of the newly renovated Blackstone Hotel, which opened Thursday after a $128 million facelift.

It’s a soaring two-story space with windows overlooking Grant Park. The view isn’t quite as grand as Sixteen’s, but you don’t need to be The Donald to afford to eat here, either.

You enter the restaurant on Michigan Avenue, which helps provide the trendy Mercat with an identity apart from the historic hotel. You may even wonder if you’re in the right place: A dark, intimate sangria and cocktail lounge with a low-slung ceiling greets you. If you can, get in a little early for a cocktail, a glass of cava or a little sangria ($7 per glass, $32 per pitcher for the seasonal flavor: blood orange and basil).

A hostess escorts you up a spiral staircase. When you reach the top, prepare for an "Oh, wow" moment: The glittering dining room pulsates with a clubby soundtrack. Yes, this is Spain by way of Las Vegas.

The sunken dining room feels crowded with tables. Two of the biggest seat about 10 people each, with Philippe Starck chairs adding a touch of Euro glam. The dominant colors are—to borrow a phrase from the "Project Runway" finale—a little Brady Bunch: plums, tangerines and shades of browns. Clusters of single bare light bulbs swing from the ceiling, the light reflecting in overscaled mirrors.

Though Mercat will no doubt draw a large touristy crowd, it’s ideal for big groups of locals looking for a fun night on the town. Semicircular booths give everyone prime views of those massive, arched windows overlooking the park—though the hexagonal snowflake patterns embellishing the glass are a bit much. Plus, the food here seems primed to give some of this town’s tired tapas joints a run for their money.

The word planxa (pronounced plan-CHA), refers to tapas prepared on an iron griddle, common in Spain’s Catalan region. Executive chef Jose Garces, a Chicago native who made his name in Philadelphia with two regional tapas joints, seems to capture the vivacious spirit of traditional Catalan cuisine (think lots of grilled seafood) while still offering contemporary flourish. You’ll find cuts of waygu ($40-$75) and Colorado rack of lamb ($16-$32) in addition to more traditional Spanish dishes, including a whole roasted suckling pig (48-hour notice required, $45 per person/four person minimum).

We started with a trio of fantastic Spanish cheeses (if you want just one, try the cana de cabra, a goat’s milk cheese with balsamic strawberry spread, $7) followed by a feast of olives ($5), beautifully constructed goat cheese ravioli ($8), spicy patas bravas ($5) Serrano-and-fig salad with spicy almonds and sherry vinaigrette ($12), garlic shrimp ($7), delicious crusty scallops ($12), crab cake ($12), turbot ($15) and flavorful rack of lamb.

Seem like a lot? It was all included in La Mesa De Jose, the chef’s selection ($55 per person; $75 with wine pairings)—a great value compared with the a la carte prices.

We weren’t too stuffed for dessert: Try the crema Catalana ($7), an orange-scented custard that’s better than yet another flan.

Service was uneven on opening night but seemed like it’s going for a friendly, personable vibe. I liked the managers who worked the room and introduced themselves—though they could lose those cheesy wireless headsets, which made me think of a fast-food drive-through.

This place may not be Sixteen, but it’s not exactly Taco Bell, either.

[ Chris LaMorte is the Metromix dining producer. All meals are paid for by Metromix; reviewers make every possible effort to remain anonymous. ] clamorte@tribune.com Updated on 3/27/08