First Look: Mado

If you’re a foodie, you probably already have heard of Mado, a new Bucktown spot causing buzz because of the less-is-more approach of the husband-and-wife chef-owners, Robert and Allison Levitt. Consider this the Toyota Prius of restaurants, where sustainability meets style.

The room reflects the stripped-down cooking approach. The 55-seat space is very Bucktown, with exposed-brick walls and high ceilings. An enormous blackboard lists the limited menu, though butcher-paper printed menus are available.

The Levitts pride themselves on their farmer-friendly approach to ingredients, especially proteins such as lamb and pork. They buy whole hogs and lambs, rather than just premium cuts, from farmer-suppliers in an effort to support the farmers. "It’s also about respecting the animal," says Allison.

That’s pretty cool because they turn out some rather unexpected dishes, including testa ($4), essentially, Italian head cheese. (Head cheese is not cheese, but a molded meat terrine.) The flavor’s deep and earthy; try it along with other cuts ($4 each) like guanciale (pork-jowl bacon) crostini, house-made salami and coppa (pork-shoulder sausage), which arrive on a cute piggy-shaped board (above) and are great for sharing. The portions are small, so order all of the options.

The approach at Mado is pretty ambitious, so the experience is still kind of inconsistent. While the wood-fired hanger steak ($18) was full-flavored, the pork leg ($16) was dry as sandpaper. Another blunder: Our spinach was gritty, basically making it inedible. Service was also slow (and for a neighborhood joint, a little cold).

Still, if you’re someone who appreciates a hand-crafted approach, check out Mado. If you’re seeking creature comforts, however, give it some breathing room. Despite the snafus we experienced, we suspect this place can grow out of them.

Mado is BYOB for now, but plan to eventually get a liquor license.

 Chris LaMorte is the Metromix dining producer. All meals are paid for by Metromix, and reviewers make every possible effort to remain anonymous. ] clamorte@tribune.com