Burger time: Goose Island Brewpub

When I heard the menu was changing at Goose Island Brewpub, a spot synonymous with burgers and beer in Chicago, I balked. Why tinker with a good thing? But there’s a sensible reason for the changes. The good people of Goose Island offer some sophisticated beers at the brewpub, and they decided it was high time the food caught up.

To assist in the effort, Goose Island turned to John Manion, former chef-owner of Wicker Park’s now-shuttered Mas and the mastermind behind the menu at West Town newcomer Old Oak Tap. Being quite devoted to the Old Oak burger, the Great Burgerelli instantly was drawn to Manion’s work at Goose Island. One new item in particular caught my eye: the pate burger, a $14 half-pounder topped with caramelized onions, blue cheese and duck liver pate with house-made quince butter.

Burgerelli’s breakdown

The burger: I had high hopes, so it is with a heavy heart that I must tell you that my burger was overcooked, arriving medium well instead of medium rare as ordered. What’s more, it showed signs of being flattened on the grill, stripping it of remaining juicy potential.

The bun: Quite passable bioche, though it is difficult to determine the true merit of a bun unless it is put to the test of supporting a juicy burger.

The fixings: Oh my! What wonderfully beer-addled mind dreamt up this heavenly combination of toppings? Sweet onions and rich pate provide just the right balance to the Amablu cheese, a tart cave-aged blue. Sweet quince butter completes the vision. Alas, if only I was not so lost in lament over the patty, I could have truly enjoyed these strokes of genius.

Everything else: Give me a pile of frites and ramekin of aioli in all its garlicky glory and I shall die a happy man. I also have been known to swoon over a fine ale, and Goose Island does not want for lack of such pleasures. Current indulgences on tap include Night Stalker, a hoppy imperial stout, and an equally delightful imperial IPA.

Burgerelli’s bottom line: Have you ever wondered if man can exist on frites and beer alone? Now might be the time to test that theory out while the new menu works up to its potential.

The Great Burgerelli is a connoisseur of burgers. Send him suggestions at gburgerelli@tribune.com.

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