Brunch at Tiztal Cafe

The scene: When Zephyr Cafe closed in 2006 after three decades in Ravenswood, the neighborhood mourned the loss of an old friend—one who was always there with a gargantuan sundae or a greasy breakfast dish when you needed it.

But it turns out all was not lost. Rosemary Lucas, a former Zephyr manager, opened Tiztal Cafe with business partner Teresa Zepeda in May, and she brought a few Zephyr favorites with her—notably the Belgian Beauty, a waffle smothered in ice cream, whipped cream and hot caramel ($6.99).

Lucas imported what she learned about customer service at Zephyr too. Tiztal embraces the best diner traditions (we’ve rarely had faster, hotter coffee service) and ditches the worst (no brusque servers here—everyone’s sweet as pie). It’s no wonder the cozy, one-room cafe gets even cozier at peak brunch hours, when folks crowd the tiny entrance to wait for a table.

The cuisine: Tiztal makes us want to go on a liquid diet—and we mean that in the best possible way. Zepeda, who ran a juice bar for 14 years, is in charge of the hand-squeezed juices ($3.25-$4.50) and smoothies ($4.75). The made-to-order concoctions, doled out in tall soda fountain glasses, are terrific on their own, or you can BYOB and mix a brunch cocktail at your table.

The rest of the menu sticks to classics, offering solid versions of nearly everything you’d expect from a breakfast-focused joint: Omelets, scrambles, Mexican egg dishes, eggs Benedict, waffles and the usual sides. Pancakes and French toast are notably absent, but that’s not because the kitchen won’t whip them up if you ask. It’s because they know what’s best for you—and that would be the waffles.

Tiztal’s waffles are made from the same batter as Zephyr’s, and you can order them plain ($4.99), pecan ($5.59) or fruit-topped ($8.29 for any combo of available fruit) and add whipped cream (75 cents) or ice cream ($1.79) to sweeten the deal. Ours arrived with a little surprise on the side: fresh strawberry crema, a secret weapon that just might put the maple syrup industry out of business if word gets out.

***

Loved it: Oatmeal shake ($4.25)

Hated it: Specials are easy to miss; we didn’t see the board until we were literally halfway out the door.

Cost: About $13-$16 per person, with tax and tip

Wait: Up to 30 minutes at peak times

M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix dining producer. kpratt@tribune.com

Add a comment