Brunch at Sola

Sidewalk seating brightens morning in North Center

By Chris LaMorte

May 16, 2008

 

Brunch at Sola
Huevos Benedictos at Sola
Sola
Address:
3868 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago, IL, 60613
Phone:
773-327-3868
Overall User Rating:
4 (57 ratings)
Write a review
Hours:
Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Thursday-Friday Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5:30-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday (closing hours subject to change) Brunch: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Brunch time: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Cost: $25 per person, with a cocktail

Wait: None

The scene: Oh, this fickle sping weather. We’re starving for a nice alfresco brunch, but Mother Nature’s conspired to keep temps lows—and keep us indoors. No more! We recently threw on a sweater and scoped the patio scene at Sola, Carol Wallack’s sophisticated neighborhood spot in North Center. Sola’s side-street patio, with about 15 tree-shaded tables, is ideal for a calm, leisurely start to the weekend. Another reason to head outdoors: It’s much more conversation friendly. Sola’s spacious dining room has always struck us as a bit acoustically challenged, meaning there’s usually a major din. Not that this place attracts rowdies: The crowd is neighborhoody, skewing slightly yuppie. If these folks were up till the wee hours the night before, they were probably just changing diapers. In fact, if you’re looking for a nice pre-graduation spot to take your parents, this is a good choice (particularly if they’re paying, because Sola can get slightly pricey).

The cuisine:
Sola’s brunch is a good reflection of Wallack’s eclectic approach to dinner. The global influences read like the a U.N. brunch delegation: Asian, Mexican, Hawaiian—there’s even a matzo brei ($9), an egg dish that’s sometimes described as a Jewish frittata. Most are wonderful, so it's hard to go wrong. I’m not really a sweets person in the morning, but I found the banana-macadamia nut pancakes ($9) unbelievably decadent. Melted Nutella oozes over the luscious banana-packed batter while a generous coating of crushed nuts adds crunch. For those who love savories, don’t miss the egg sandwich ($8), a thick brute filled with over-easy eggs, peppery arugula and a few crisp bacon strips (cured and smoked in house), all coated in a creamy boursin cheese.

Better than a bloody mary: The entire cocktail list! In particular, try the wasabi bloody mary ($12), rimmed with fiery green wasabi powder and garnished with skewered shrimp and a spear of pickled asparagus, will cure what ails you.

Loved it:
Malasadas ($7), the Portuguese answer to Dunkin’ Donuts Munchkins

Hated it:
Chilaquiles ($9) were a rare misfire—bland and mushy.

 


[ Chris LaMorte is the Metromix dining producer. ] metromix@tribune.com

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