Brunch at Simone's

The scene: A bloody mary says a lot about a restaurant’s brunch. Then again, the right vibe can set expectations high before you even take that first sip. So when we sat down for the newly launched brunch at Simone’s, where bowling-alley planks frame the main bar, jalapenos top the signature burger and wall art screams neo-punk meets Victorian-Nintendo, we expected a doozy of a mary.

We weren’t disappointed. The drink fits the place, which differentiates itself from its siblings (notably Logan Bar & Grill and Northside Bar & Grill) with an indie edge. By night, Simone’s packs an eclectic mix of hipster hoodies seeking food and beer to the tune of DJ-spun rock jams. By day? There are fewer people, but the bar’s just as spicy.

Simone’s bloody mary ($7.50) comes stuffed with a skewer of Swiss cheese, jalapeno peppers and a paprika-, celery salt- and black pepper-covered green olive alongside a clever cracker wedge meant to ease the drink’s deceptive bite. Trust us, you’ll need the cracker. This isn’t your grocer’s Tabasco-tinged tomato brand; it’s a lethal wasabi-laced mixture that made us thankful for the Metropolitan Flywheel Bright Lager chaser.

Not into fiery cocktails at an early hour? Simone’s offers a range of tamer drinks, including a mimosa ($7.50) and coffee from Batavia, Ill.-based Papa Nicholas Coffee Co.

The cuisine: In keeping with Simone’s dinner menu, which covers the basics with a twist, brunch offerings stick close to the norm without playing copycat. For one, an omelet-sized circle of scrambled egg tops Simone’s version of chilaquiles ($6.50), and salsa verde coats tortilla chips just enough to kill the crunch but to avoid a soggy mess.

If you’re vegetarian or just want something besides the same ol’ eggs for breakfast, try a bowl of warm quinoa ($6), a protein-packed South American grain that’s similar in texture to couscous. Simone’s shakes up the substantial dish with almonds, cranberries and a dash of honey for extra sweetness.

Simone’s omelet ($7.50) stuck closely to what you’d find on other brunch menus, but since we believe everything is better with bacon, this mozzarella-, caramelized red onion- and bacon-stuffed omelet won us over. Bonus: Hash browns are mixed with onions and red and green peppers for a slightly sweet twist on breakfast potatoes. If that doesn’t spice up brunch expectations, what does?

***

Loved it: iTunes set to indie-rock

Hated it: Novice service

Brunch time: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

Cost: About $20 per person with tax and tip

Wait: None

Lisa Balde is the Metromix print editor. lbalde@tribune.com

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