Brunch at Sepia

The scene: Now that you’re done gorging on turkey and pumpkin pie, there’s a lot to be done before Christmas and New Year’s: shopping, party planning, more shopping. Oh, and don’t forget brunch at Sepia.

Why the rush? After Dec. 14, Sepia’s brunch goes on hiatus until April, and it would be a shame to let 2008 slip by without trying one of the best morning meals in town. Besides, don’t you deserve a little break from all of that holiday thoughtfulness and generosity? Just think of it as an early Christmas gift to yourself.

Though dinner for two at the West Loop spot creeps into the triple digits quite quickly, brunch prices are in line with what you’ll find just about anywhere else in town; the average entree clocks in at about $11. You won’t find the heaping portions of a corner diner here, but that’s the whole point. Brunch—especially brunch here—is meant to be savored.

The cuisine: As long as you’re treating yourself, you might as well make it a multicourse affair. Start with coffee from local roaster Metropolis ($3.50) and an order of mini-muffins, croissants or scones ($6). Selections change weekly—on a recent visit we got three little macadamia-coconut-chocolate chip muffins—but whatever’s offered, you can count on a nice segue to the main event.

Entrees are on par with what we’ve come to expect from Sepia’s dinners, which combine market-fresh ingredients and solid execution to create flavors that leap off that plate. Our smoked duck hash ($12) was a perfect example. The little cast iron pan of diced potatoes came studded with smoked duck, young carrots and cipollini, striking just the right balance between smoky and sweet thanks to the little onions. If you’re looking for something more decadent, you can’t go wrong with the chocolate French toast ($11), surrounded by fresh sliced bananas and topped with chocolate sauce and rich caramel mascarpone.

Since you’re going to want to linger, you’ll need a brunch cocktail. Our favorite is the Reviver ($9), a blend of Veev acai spirit, Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur, fresh lime juice and soda. The fizzy pink libation is true to name, so when brunch finally comes to an end you’ll be ready for those holiday crowds.

***

Loved it: Bacon bloody mary. Mmm … liquid bacon.

Hated it: One undercooked muffin. Seriously. That’s all we’ve got.

Brunch time: 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday

Cost: $25-$20 per person with cocktail, tax and tip

Wait: None

M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix dining producer. kpratt@tribune.com

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