Brunch at Rios D'Sudamerica

The scene: Rios D’Sudamerica partied into the wee hours last night. And yes, if you must know, it’s still feeling a bit fuzzy from that last caipirinha. But since early August, Bucktown’s festive pan-South American spot has been rising early for brunch.

White tablecloths, white suede chairs and soaring ceilings make for stylish surroundings, while the Latin music drifting out of huge floor speakers almost carries you off to another land. Splashy murals of South American landmarks (Machu Picchu is on one wall, "Christ the Redeemer" watches over Rio de Janerio from atop Corcovado on another), however, are there to remind you exactly where you’re not.

Since brunch only has been running a few weeks, the scene is tame. Young couples and families fill a few tables indoors and on the small sidewalk cafe fronting Armitage Avenue, and you’re not likely to have to wait for a seat.

The cuisine: Rios draws influences from across South America, making for some hearty a.m. offerings—especially if you call a double latte breakfast during the week.

Light appetites might be satisfied with a single tamale ($4). For something more substantial, try the lomos al jugo ($7), a stew-like meal of steak with tomatoes and onions. The broth from the slow-simmered meat and veggies is irresistible, and the dish is served with a hunk of crusty bread perfectly suited for sopping up the stuff. The rustic Peruvian breakfast dish known as chicharones fritos ($7) isn’t as likely to have you savoring every bite. The fried cubes of salted pork are supposed to be a little dry, but ours seemed on their way to becoming pork jerky.

The Peruvian-leaning brunch menu also includes a section devoted to so-called hangover specials, such as caldo de camarones (shrimp soup) and ceviche. Our server swore the fresh soups were the real deal, a Sunday tradition in up-all-night locales, but he steered us toward the ceviche, bite-sized pieces of sole marinated in lime juice with cilantro, aji limo chile peppers and raw onions. As ceviche, it wasn’t bad. But as a hangover cure? Pretty tasty.

Loved it: Nortena tamale, filled with chicken, green olives and hard-boiled eggs

Hated it: A $3 bloody mary that tasted like, well, a $3 bloody mary

Brunch time: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday

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