Brunch at Mrs. Murphy & Son's Irish Bistro

Cost: $15-$20 per person (including a beer or cocktail) with tax and tip

Wai: None

The scene: Hangover alert! You’ve got less than three weeks until St. Patrick’s Day—and if you haven’t been following a strict training regimen (order beer, drain, repeat) for the last month, you might be in trouble. Unless, of course, you’re game for the quick fix of an Irish breakfast. Yes, for those hard-drinking days when a Starbuck’s muffin won’t do, there’s Mrs. Murphy & Sons Irish Bistro. Despite its name, this giant North Center spot is more pub-restaurant complex than quaint bistro. There’s a big, echoing entryway and even an elevator to whisk you up to the second-floor dining room. During brunch, however, only the bar area and smaller downstairs dining room are open. When someone throws a log on the fire in the real, wood-burning fireplace, it’s downright cozy. March 15 and 16, Mrs. Murphy’s rolls out a special St. Pat’s buffet ($16.95). Until then, the regular brunch menu has you covered.

The cuisine: An Irish breakfast doesn’t have to be all black pudding (that’s Irish blood sausage for you Statesiders) and bangers (sausage). Though Mrs. Murphy’s does serve a fortifying Irish breakfast (three eggs, bacon, bangers, black and white puddings, grilled tomatoes and mushrooms, toast and a tiny crock of beans) for just $9, there’s plenty more stick-to-your ribs fare. Brunch skillets showcase Ireland’s star starch, the potato, with tasty spuds providing a substantial base. Omelets are just as hearty. Though cheeseless, our Dublin omelet ($8) was a protein dream, packed with bacon, bangers, and black and white puddings, as well as tomatoes and mushrooms. For a sweeter start, try the Irish toast ($8.50), a twist on French toast with eggy bread soaked in rich Irish cream.

Better than a bloody mary: Irish drafts (Guinness, Smithwick’s, Kinsale) are half-price (regularly $5-$5.50) on Sundays.

Loved it: Finally, a pub that puts some thought into the beer list instead of falling back on familiar Emerald Isle faves.

Hated it: Our server talked up the corned beef in our skillet, but we found it too lean.


M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix print editor. kpratt@tribune.com