Brunch at Hub 51

Photo tour: Brunch at Hub 51

Butterscotch waffles, Hubchata and more

The scene: It’s a wonder that Hub 51 went nearly a year without serving brunch. The River North restaurant does just about everything else, from tacos in the bar to sushi in the dining room to late-night drinks in the subterranean lounge, Sub 51. Until last weekend, brunch was the one holdout.

Turns out the mid-day meal suits Hub 51 quite well. The innocuous music (damn, it’s been a long time since we’ve heard Paul Simon) is unlikely to rattle anyone who’s been out too late the night before. Service is Lettuce-Entertain-You smooth and attentive. (Our server even asked if we preferred our poached eggs runny or firm, an essential but oft-overlooked question.). And get this: There’s a 10 percent discount for anyone who shows up in PJs. Better still, they’ll knock 20 percent off your bill if you arrive in the clothes you wore the night before—assuming, of course, that those clothes spent the night somewhere other than your closet.

The cuisine: Hub 51 hasn’t earned a following by serving innovative, eye-opening food. It’s built a reputation on familiar, comforting favorites. Whether this is your thing in the evening is up to you. But it’s hard to deny that the approach transfers well to brunch, a meal that relies heavily on comforting favorites.

Hub’s kitchen serves up a long list of hits, from steak and eggs ($16) to strawberry waffles ($11). And true to form, the menu serves up snarky commentary ("whole wheat pancakes—no more of that half-wheat you’ve been hearing about") and a bit of whimsy (order Hamm’s and eggs, and you get a can of Hamm’s beer with your bacon and eggs).

Though there are plenty of creatively worded menu items to tempt you, not all of them deliver. Our short ribs benedict ($14) had us wishing we’d played it safe with a Belgian waffle ($10) or even one of the huge egg sandwiches ($8) we saw passing by. All of the basics were on point, but the braised short ribs, the one deviation from tradition, lacked seasoning and depth. Familiar dishes fare much better. Blueberry pancakes ($10) are almost impossibly thick, yet not too heavy. Topped with warm blueberry syrup, they’re exactly what you want for brunch—whether you know it or not.

***

Loved it: Super-smoky thick-cut bacon ($3)

Hated it: Bland bloody mary ($6)

Brunch time: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

Cost: About $20-$24 per person, with cocktail

Wait: None

M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix dining producer. kpratt@tribune.com

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