Brunch at Green Zebra

The scene: Green Zebra just might be one of the best-kept brunch secrets in town. While the crowd spills out the door and onto the sidewalk just a few doors down at West Town brunch fave Flo (1434 W. Chicago Ave.), those in the know stroll casually into Shawn McClain’s veggie-focused spot. We’ll admit it: We stayed away for awhile too, fearing Green Zebra might be a bit chichi for our usual Sunday morning state of mind. But in the light of day, we discovered a different Green Zebra than the trendy, polished one we know after dark. Weekend nights here may be casual-chic, but the morning-after vibe is more jeans-and-a-hoodie. The other big difference: Compared to dinner, Sunday brunch is a relative bargain. Most entrees clock in at about $10, give or take a few bucks, whereas dinner tabs can easily top $50 per person—and that’s before cocktails.
The cuisine: Green Zebra’s philosophy embraces seasonal ingredients, so the menu changes depending on what’s fresh and available. On a recent weekend we saw one of the first signs of spring: Tiny green pea tendrils, joined by smoked shitakes and served around a pile of buttery Red Mill grits topped with two poached eggs ($10). For a sweeter start, try the delicate German-style pancake ($10), with perfectly crisped edges and thin mango slices baked on top. Unlike dinner, where you’re encouraged to try a few small plates, a single entree from the brunch menu is enough to fill you up. If you’re still hungry, go for a sweet side such as almond kringle ($3), a dense, layered pastry of Danish origin made with yeast dough; or a decadent five-spice cinnamon roll ($5). Our only complaint: Our super-sweet roll could have done without half of its sugary frosting.
Better than a bloody mary: A tart, fizzy treat Lanai Sparkler ($8), made with hibiscus nectar and bubbly. For a booze-free buzz, try a house-made soda ($5); our favorite flavor is pink peppercorn-thyme.
Loved it: Complimentary madeleines with honey-lavender butter and lemon curd

Hated it: Only three-and-a-half hours of brunch service a week

Brunch time: 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays

Cost: About $25 per person with a cocktail

Wait: None

[ M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix print editor. ] kpratt@tribune.com