Brunch at Gemini

Photo tour: Gemini Bistro

The scene: Jason Paskewitz, chef-partner at Lincoln Park's Gemini Bistro, has taken on much bigger restaurants. He's been in the kitchen at the Four Seasons, Nine and JP Chicago, among others. And his most recent project, Jackson Park, was to be a 9,000-square-foot masterpiece before it succumbed to financing woes.

But bigger isn't always better. Paskewitz's latest, which he opened with partner Ryan O'Donnell a little more than a month ago, is tucked into an angular corner space that seats fewer than 100. With a dining room done up in subdued mocha and vanilla tones and simple filament-style bulbs hanging above most booths, it's not flashy. It's just a polished neighborhood spot serving polished bistro fare.

The cuisine: Paskewitz's fare fits his space. Portion sizes aren't stifling, and dishes favor quiet sophistication over flashy presentation. Subtle things set Gemini's brunch apart. It starts with a paper cone of complimentary mini-blueberry muffins accompanied by sweet lemon icing for dipping--a nice touch made even better when you realize that for the most part, only the crunchy, desirable muffin tops have made the cut.

Just as carefully considered is the tiny grilled cheddar sandwich that arrives with a shallow bowl of bright, creamless tomato soup ($5), evoking a childhood memory that's improved with time.

If this is sounding quite traditional, that's because it is. There are steel-cut oats ($4), buttermilk pancakes ($8), eggs Benedict ($10) and a croque madame ($10) that's classic in every way, from the crisp-edged fried egg on top to the warm, cheesy mornay sauce on which it rests.

When anything at Gemini parts from convention, as the cocktail list does with a potent brunch punch ($10), it's a graceful leap. The rum and fruit juice-based cocktail is one pink paper cocktail umbrella short of spring break in Cancun. But it doesn't aspire to such things, and that makes all the difference.

***

Loved it: Illy coffee

Hated it: The booths in front of the host stand, which make you feel like you're sitting in a foyer.

Brunch time: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday

Cost: About $25 per person, with cocktails

Wait: 15-20 minutes, tops

M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix dining producer. kpratt@tribune.com

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