Brunch at Brio

The scene: There's no reason to sit inside when Brio's picturesque patio is open. To stay shady, request a spot under the green-and-white striped awning; the tables near the perimeter, even with their bright white umbrellas, can get some strong sun. The crowd on a recent Sunday morning ranged from a young couple noshing on an antipasto platter to a 20-somethings with extended family to an over-50 group lamenting they couldn't order liquor until after noon. The rustic stone floor, lights strung overhead and a border of potted greenery adds plenty of charm, and we especially love a bank of casual couches and chairs near the patio's center. It could only get better if there was a view of the Italian countryside instead of shoppers strolling The Shops on Butterfield.

The cuisine: Crepes stuffed with lumb crabmeat, melted smoked mozzarella and whole spears of asparagus were tender and tasty($12.95). Our marscapone-stuffed French toast with berries was disappointingly skimpy on the berries, but rich and creamy otherwise ($8.95). Nine other entrees make for a robust selection, ranging from salmon with a poached egg and sweet potato hash ($13.95) to a bacon-and-egg panini with fontina cheese and black-pepper mayo ($9.95).

Better than a bloody mary: A bellini made with peach nectar and prosecco ($6.25 a glass; 18.95 a pitcher). A mango version co-stars during the summer months ($6.50; $19.95).

Loved it: We adored the teeny hot-from-the-oven muffins that arrived before our entrees -- especially the tart and sweet granny smith apple flavor. Brio also makes it tough not to leave room for dessert, which we're far from complaining about. Miniature desserts -- a half dozen flavored creme brulees, plus tiramisu, panna cotta and other Italian treats -- are served in espresso cups and speared with a chocolate straw. We greedily scooped up all four spoonfuls of our chocolate-hazelnut brulee, worth every penny of its modest $2.25 price tag.

Hated it: If Brio feels a bit like a chain, its because...well, it is. Except you might not know it, considering this Brio is the first in Illinois, courtesy of parent company Columbus, Ohio-based Bravo! Development, Inc. If you can ignore the slight cheesiness of the sepia-hued, faux-aged menus and the dining room's overly regal Italian decor, its quite a nice brunch pick for the area.

Cost: $8.95-$15.95 for entrees

Wait: None.

[ Lisa Arnett is the Metromix suburbs and shopping producer. Metromix reviews are based on anonymous visits. Meals are paid for by Metromix. lmarnett@tribune.com ]

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