Brunch at Bistro Campagne

The scene: Bistro Campagne, I can’t believe it’s been six years since you transformed your little piece of Lincoln Avenue into the charming Provence-by-way-of-Prairie School boite it is today. It’s been probably almost as long since I’ve eaten with you, however. Guess I’ve been so caught up chasing the sexiest sushi and the trendiest tapas that I’ve relegated you to just another neighborhood bistro. Can you forgive me, mon ami? Now that your serene garden is in full bloom, with a canopy of foliage offering a little post-noon shade, your just-launched brunch is the perfect way to rediscover your charms—and to whet my appetite for dinner. The nearby Lincoln Avenue bars may be booming with bloody mary seekers, but Bistro Campagne, we think your rustic fare is still the best thing in town.

The cuisine: Owner and executive chef Michael Altenberg was one of the first in town to usher sustainable and organic products into the culinary mainstream. (He went on to open Crust, the only certified organic pizza spot in the Midwest.) Altenberg’s chef de cuisine, Daniel Jacobs, proudly carries on his tradition at Bistro Campagne. Even those who couldn’t give a flying fig—organic or otherwise—about such things will love his playful take on French classics. Take my favorite dish, the pain perdue (a.k.a. French toast). It’s exactly the kind brunch staple chefs are forever trying to jazz up. But Jacobs actually succeeds with his dreamy version ($10), enlivened with vanilla-blackberry mascarpone and served with crunchy candied hazelnuts and spiced maple syrup. Though the oeufs brouilles ($11), scrambled eggs with roasted rabbit ragu, cream cheese, ramps and a classic touch of tangy European mustard, seemed a bit heavy for a summer afternoon, the flavors were clean and fresh. But hurry: Jacobs says he’s down to his last five pounds of ramps.

Better than a bloody mary: The bloodies ($8) here are hard to pass up—they come with a roasted serrano ham chip, for crying out loud! If you want something a bit stronger, go for a French 75 ($8).

Loved it: Two words: sausage flight ($6)

Hated it: My cholesterol count

Brunch time: 11 a.m-2 p.m. Sundays

Cost: About $25 per person, including cocktail, tax and tip

Wait: None

Chris LaMorte is the Metromix dining producer. metromix@tribune.com