Brunch at Birchwood Kitchen

The scene: When Cold Comfort closed last year, a void opened. The deli had occupied its antiqued North Avenue storefront for so long that neighbors never had considered the possibility that their source of overstuffed sandwiches and inexpensive breakfasts might someday dry up. And then it did.

The business that moved in would have big shoes to fill. A Subway or a Cosi wouldn’t work here, nor would a fancy brunch spot serving $12 bellinis. And the guys behind Birchwood Kitchen, the new sandwich-focused spot that opened in the space about two weeks ago, figured that out.

Owners Daniel Sirko and Judd Murphy spent several months gutting the space. They opened up the once-cramped dining room and service counter, redoing everything from the kitchen to the floorboards. Then they called on Culinary Institute of America-trained chef Jason Ball to help design a menu incorporating locally sourced, seasonal ingredients with a focus on house-made finishes. When the neighborhood finally got to unleash its pent-up desire for sandwiches and weekend brunch, they were ready.

The cuisine: While you’ll find salads and soups on the lunch and dinner menus, this place is really all about the sandwich. When two pieces of bread and some fillings and toppings are involved, Birchwood Kitchen excels.

It follows, then, that the breakfast sandwich ($8.50) is already a best seller. The palm-sized halves are served steaming hot, a roasted red pepper frittata wedged tightly between pieces of grilled focaccia stacked with smoked bacon and cheddar cheese. There’s a croque madame ($9.50) on the brunch menu too, or you can veer into the all-day sandwich lineup, a dozen strong and packed with high-end ingredients from the likes of La Quercia (artisan cured meats from Iowa) and Zingerman’s Creamery (cheeses from Michigan).

Beyond sandwiches, most of the usual cafe standards are offered: quiche ($8.50), a smoked salmon plate ($11.50), Belgian waffles ($7.50). There’s also a tasty polenta dish ($11), two squares of grilled polenta accompanied by sunny eggs and a sweet and tart house-made red pepper-raisin relish, all sprinkled with pine nuts and shaved manchego.

Though we’ll always have a place in our hearts for the quirky deli that once lived here, this newcomer is no cold comfort—some might even say it’s better.

***

Loved it: Vegan scone with house-made jam ($2.50), which destroyed any preconceptions we had about butter-free baked goods

Brunch time: 9 a.m.-close Saturday-Sunday

Cost: $12-$15

Wait: None

M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix dining producer. kpratt@tribune.com

Add a comment