Brunch at Angel Food Bakery

The scene: Spring is a time for rebirth—and after the winter this city’s had, we need one. That’s why we love this three-and-half-year-old Ravenswood corner bakery and cafe: It’s bound to make you feel like a kid again. Taking a page from Kitsch’n on Roscoe’s campy playbook, Angel Food feels like a museum of forgotten toys—specifically, the Easy-Bake Oven. Lining the shelves around the dining room, owner Stephanie Samuels’ collection traces the toy’s evolution from fake gas burners to the fake microwave oven (all heated, of course, by a light bulb). Pastel green walls, linoleum tile and shiny plastic covering the tablecloths complete the retro-kitchen feel. Light pours into this place in the afternoon, and a few chairs along the glass windows give you a nice view of the patio, which opens at the end of April. We adore the cafe’s front picture window with its Willy Wonka-esque version of springtime: big fake flowers, more toy ovens and enough whimsy to pull you out of the winter blues.
The cuisine: The kitsch continues with the cuisine, but trust us, nothing here’s cooked in an Easy-Bake. Angel Food’s focus, naturally, is baked goods, including elaborate wedding cakes and signature retro sweets. (Try Samuels’ foil-wrapped take on the Twinkie, called the Airstream, filled with marshmallow buttercream, $2.50). But Angel Food is pretty serious when it comes to lunch and breakfast during the week. Sunday brunch is just as good: Try the thick and spongy baked French toast, served with fragrant orange marmalade syrup and a pile of fresh fruit ($7). Fans of eggs Benedict may want to try the savory creamed wild mushrooms on toast instead; it’s served with two perfectly poached eggs and nicely crisped bacon. There’s also a scramble of the day ($8). We tried an asparagus and goat cheese version, but thought the crunchy vegetables could have used a bit more roasting to bring out the flavor. If you want to go all out—or if you went all out on Saturday night—stick to the retro: Angel Food’s version of mac and cheese, served with seared honey ham ($8.50).

BRUNCH TIME: 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday
COST: $10 per person
WAIT: 10 minutes at noon on Sunday
LOVED IT: Nibbles of ricotta brioche that Samuels passes out while you wait for a table
HATED IT: How could you hate anything so cute?
BETTER THAN A BLOODY MARY: Getting coffee while you wait for a seat—Samuels delivers it personally.

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[ Chris LaMorte is the Metromix dining producer. ] metromix@tribune.com