Brunch at 35th Street Cafe

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The scene: No offense to Huck Finn Donuts (we heart your 3 a.m. hangover cures!), but when the Becky Thatcher egg deal—a classic, Huck Finn special—reigns as a ’hood’s culinary heartthrob, you can’t blame the locals for getting excited about something new. Especially when that something new serves brunch.

Enter 35th Street Cafe. This corner coffee shop-eatery hybrid is hardly taking for granted the local customer base that’s starving for something new. Instead it’s going for street cred with hearty, inexpensive food, a versatile special events space that doubles as brunch overflow on weekends and forthcoming events such as gallery showings by local artists.

Three weeks after opening, the influx of diners hasn’t subsided—or broken the owners’ stride. On a recent Saturday morning, young couples and families steadily filled the dining room’s dozen or so cafe tables. Easy-listening music swayed through the air, and manager and co-owner Erika Gutierrez (who lives within blocks of the cafe, as does co-owner Danny Varagoza) shook hands with everyone, repeating first names in hopes of remembering them next time.

The cuisine: This is no 3 a.m. diner. But it’s not a McSandwich-slinging java hut either. The kitchen serves up hefty, home-style portions of breakfast favorites such as strawberry-covered French toast ($5.75) and fresh eggs with crisp breakfast potatoes and bacon ($4.99). Want a latte? They’ve got coffee, lots of it. But it tends to take a back seat to brunch.

Varagoza got help from the owner of brunch favorite Flo when it came time to open 35th Street Cafe, so it’s no surprise that Southwestern-inspired dishes shine, from black bean-topped huevos rancheros ($5.50) to our favorite, the Arizona omelet ($5.99), a big, fluffy egg pocket stuffed with avocado, sour cream, sauteed mushrooms and shallots.

Ordering follows the coffee-shop side of the operation—order at the counter first, then sit down—creating some confusion. Thankfully, quick service and a table-side visit from the chef made us forget about the awkward entry. Another plus: Everything on the brunch menu is available weekdays for breakfast, served until 11 a.m.

Food is priced for the recession weary—a single diner’s tab usually doesn’t exceed $10. It’s an effort that, these days, not even the neighborhood diner can promise.

***

Loved it: House-made desserts, especially the caramel-topped bread pudding ($2.50)

Hated it: Ordering at the counter before sitting down

Brunch time: 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

Cost: $8-$10 per person

Lisa Balde is the Metromix print editor. lbalde@tribune.com

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