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Charlie Socher -- a native Chicagoan -- serves light French country fare at Cafe Matou. The large, elegant eatery occupies two storefronts and is the deepest upscale incursion yet along the warehouse and junkyard corridor that leads northwest from Wicker Park, pushing the trendiness of the Milwaukee, North and Damen intersection toward the cluster of fast-food joints on the still-downscale outskirts of Logan Square. It's a bit surreal to encounter the tall, wood-framed windows of Cafe Matou's facade in these environs. Inside are works of art by local artists, including cat chandeliers by Light Beings that illuminate the main dining room. The chandeliers are something of a mascot for the restaurant -- "matou" is French for "tomcat." The food is in keeping with the decor -- clean, classic and straightforward, and the menu changes daily. On Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, a three-course prix-fixe menu is offered in addition to the regular menu. The wine list is mainly French, with some Californians thrown in.

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Bucktown/Wicker Park restaurants, Chicago restaurants, French restaurants