Brunch time: 9:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Average cost: $18 per person, ordering from the specials menu with a cocktail; from Cafe Menu, you can get out for as little as $12 (average) with coffee.
The scene: Funky. Artsy. Hipster. Did a streetcar just go by because this place feels like San Francisco to us. Everyone rocks a certain, shall we say, indie band tour-bus chic. From the ubiquitous Chuck Taylors to more pearl-button snaps than we've seen since the gay rodeo left town, the dress code here says: morning stubble welcome. The interior also works the indie charm: Look for the MCA-worthy rock-band lapel pin collages.
The cuisine: Fresh. Local. Divine. We wish we could be more specific, but another San Fran aesthetic pervades the spirit of this place--that of freshness-first foodie guru Alice Waters. That means the menu changes weekly, depending on what's looking good to the chef. With this week's debut of Green City Market, who knows what just-up-from-the-Earth delights you'll find. Last week our chocolate-studded griddle cakes with lemon butter ($11) were so good we shared with the next table. But the tender, savory braised-pork tamale was even better ($11); we kept that for ourselves. The more static Cafe Menu is large, and always includes egg dishes like frittatas, sandwiches, oatmeal and pastas.
Brunch drunk love: The housemade sangria ($8) was delish, with hints of crushed blackberries. Even the bloody mary ($8) had depth, with a bit of wasabi fire.
Kiddie factor: This place doesn't seem the best place for a stroller. We only spotted one newborn during our last visit.
The wait: During peak times (10 a.m.-2 p.m.), an hour wait isn't unheard of (though a patio speeds things up in warm weather); scope out the bar for a quicker seat. Rating: 3 eggs (out of 4)


[Chris LaMorte is the metromix dining producer.] clamorte@tribune.com