New tapas

It looks like 2009 is shaping up to be the year of tapas. Already, we have newcomers Pintxos and Tapas Valencia. How does the field look so far? We sized it up while we wait for the next addition, Eivissa (see sidebar) to open in a few weeks.

Pintxos (pictured)
This weekend-only second-floor sister spot to River North’s Cafe Iberico focuses on the namesake pintxos (literally, spikes). In Northern Spain, where the tapas style originated, pintxos typically incorporate bites of bread and the "spikes," or skewers, are used to keep track of how many pieces you’ve eaten. Here, the skewers are exclusively threaded with grilled meat, seafood or veggies and paired with sauces. The spacious green- and yellow-walled loft buzzes like its downstairs neighbor but doesn’t pull off the same cozy vibe—perhaps that has something to do with the flat-screen TVs and laminated picture placemats that lay out your dinner options.

Tapas Valencia
Two months in and this tapas spot, which debuted lunch service and a $2 tapas menu in the bar (4-6 p.m. Monday-Friday) this week, already feels like a South Loop fixture. The large, open dining room is done up in primary colors, with mosaic murals on the walls. Fans of bacon-wrapped dates and other familiar favorites won’t be disappointed: The menu covers all the usual suspects, from patatas bravas to paella. For a new spot, service is incredibly polished. Granted, they’ve had practice: Tapas Valencia had a home in suburban Bloomingdale until last year, and it’s a sib to Naperville’s Meson Sabika.

DON'T MISS IT
Pintxos: Eel pintxo ($1.75). Tender and smoky, it’s the one bite that stands out in a sea of mediocre options.
Tapas Valencia: Gambas al ajillo ($7.95), straight-up grilled shrimp drowning in butter and garlic. (Because isn’t everything better with butter?)

SKIP IT
Pintxos: Pollo al ajillo. Our server told us the cute little cazuelas of chicken wings or drumsticks are a house specialty. Only if undersized and underseasoned is special.
Tapas Valencia: Dessert. You’ll have options aplenty, from profiteroles ($5.50) to bizcocho borracho ($5.95), the Spanish spin on tiramisu, but none stand out.

BEST VALUE
Pintxos: Tortillas espanolas. The smallest ($5.95) easily serves four. Even with a 50-cent charge for add-ons such as onions and red peppers, it’s still a great deal on one of the best dishes on the menu.
Tapas Valencia: Hmm … tough one. Well, bar prices are reasonable. Specialty cocktails like the Sangriatini (red wine, pomegranate liqueur, raspberry vodka, Cointreau and cranberry juice) are $9-$10, and most wines by the glass are $6-$8.50.

SANGRIA
Pintxos: At $3.95 a glass or $14.95 a pitcher, the price is right. The catch? Both varieties (red and white) were pretty weak.
Tapas Valencia: A cava option ($6.50 a glass) is a classy touch; red and white versions (glass $5.50, pitcher $22.95) get the job done.

BOTTOM LINE
Pintxos: If Cafe Iberico’s too crowded or you want to stuff yourself silly for less than $25 (including watered-down sangria), Pintxos has your back. In all other instances, you can do better.
Tapas Valencia: If you’re OK with that scrubbed and sanitized suburban feel, Tapas Valencia is a reliable pick. Stick to the front bar area and drink enough sangria, and it even starts to feel a bit like a scene.

M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix dining producer. kpratt@tribune.com