Meat, meat and more meat
It's been a while since the Brazilian steakhouse market exploded in the 'burbs, and since then we've seen more than one meet its demise. Marcelo Rocha and some pals from Sal y Carvao have set out on their own with Churrasco Brazil, promising the most traditional Brazilian steakhouse experience possible. Having set up camp in the old Venuti's address in Villa Park, the 220-seat restaurant boasts the traditional pre-meat buffet and stop/go token on your table to prompt the parade of gauchos slicing up various cuts of grilled beef, pork and chicken. The prices are a few bucks lower than the other chains, and since the nearest churrascaria to these parts is Texas de Brazil in Schaumburg, perhaps they're on to something here.
French bistro becomes Italian trattoria
Giovanni Chirulli, a Kendall College grad and native of the Puglia region of Italy, teamed up with two cousins to open Trattoria Valle D'Itria Ristorante Italiano & Pizzeria in Highland Park near Ravinia. Formerly French restaurant Tapis Rouge, the interior has undergone a bit of an Italian makeover with honey-colored walls, a slick granite bar and photos of Puglia -- which, in case you were wondering, is the southeastern heel of Italy's boot. The heart of the kitchen is the brick oven, which churns out 12-inch pizzas crowned with toppings such as porcini mushrooms and sausage, plus entrees such as roasted chicken with potatoes. The menu also boasts plenty of pasta dishes, including orecchiette -- a Puglian pasta named for its ear-like shape -- topped with braciole (veal cutlets stuffed with cheese and capers in a basil-tomato sauce. To drink, you'll find Italian beers like Peroni and Moretti, along with more than a dozen Italian and domestic wines, including chiantis and a few vinos from -- of course -- Puglia. Everybody say it with us now: "Puglia!"
Beyond the Velvet Rope
Velvet Rope has opened in the former Oak Park Abbey address. Looking to serve the GLBT community in the near-west 'burbs, this upscale bar and small-plates spot is currently in soft-opening mode, still tweaking its menu until its May 8 grand opening. Mirrors, granite flooring and plenty of velvet curtains lend a loungier vibe to this former wine bar. Owner Carol Bertacchi and consultant David Gotowko recruited Abbey chef Mark Wright to stay in the kitchen here, where he whips up sharable snacks such as mini macadamia-crusted crabcakes with pineapple relish ($16), Coca Cola-glazed shortribs ($13), pastry-wrapped brie with strawberries ($10) and flatbread pizzas ($9-$10). In an address that used to be all about the wine, you'll find a smattering of wines by the glass ($7-$16), but the focus has shifted to premium cocktails and "Velvetinis" in rich flavors such as blackberry and key lime ($9).
COMING SOON
Soul sets a date...and delays...in Clarendon Hills
Howard Davis (owner of city spots Marche and Gioco) has partnered with Le Lan's Bill Kim to open Soul in downtown Clarendon Hills. Taking on the executive chef role is Karen Nicolas, who tells us Soul has pushed back its opening once again, now hoping for early May. Aiming to strike a balance between casual and fine dining, the menu is full of comfort-food favorites with a twist. Nicolas gave us a sneak peek at her menu, and we're salivating just thinking about the barbecue braised beef short-rib pot pie ($19) and quail stuffed with cornbread and sausage ($23). Once this place finally opens, we've got one piece of advice for you: Save room for dessert. Sweet dishes like strawberry rhubarb tart topped with creme-fraiche ice sorbet and a chocolate soufflet tart with mint julep ice cream sound worth the splurge ($9 each).
Fro-yo frenzy!
We've watched as swirly cups of frozen yogurt from east and west coast purveyor Pinkberry have popped up in the hands of celebrities and on TV shows from Ugly Betty to Saturday Night Live, and even hoped our very own Midwest might snag one during our predictions for 2008. Though we've heard the company is scouting Chicago for a location, looks like South-Korean chain Red Mango beat them to it, planning to open its first Illinois locations in Evanston and Naperville in mid-May. Remember when the arrival of Coldstone Creamery on Jefferson Avenue in N-ville had locals lining up out the door? We're expecting the same for this one.
French brasserie in the works in Northfield
We were hoping that Haussmann Brasserie, a new Northfield spot from restaurateur Jacky Pluton (He ran self-titled Pluton downtown a few years back, plus Jacky's Bistro in Evanston) would open in time for Mother's Day, but the opening has just been delayed to mid-May. Though the name smacks of a traditional French spot, purists should take note that the concept is tweaked a bit: traditional French classics with American influence from Thomas Rice, who'll preside over the kitchen here. This space on Happ Road has sat vacant for about a year, and was formerly home to North Shore hot-spots Brasserie T and MK North; those who remember the cavernous look of those restaurants, though, will hardly recognize the revamped space, which will sport a more intimate feel with a lower ceiling, carpeted floors and banquette seating aplenty.
Opening soon in Oak Park
Briejo, a sweet 50-seat spot will aim to please locals with elevated casual eats, a swanky all-ages atmosphere, funky tunes and a blue-jeans dress code. An early June 2008 opening is in the works. Owner (and OP local) Brigette Lytle has brought in two impressive Chicago names to consult on the menu: Jody Andre (Speakeasy, Tomboy) and Nicole Parthemore (She She). Tasty-sounding starters include bacon and brie-spiked crabcakes, ground lamb-stuffed portabella mushroom caps and deep-friend cheese curds with spicy tomato sauce for dipping.
New bar in N-ville
We love a clever bar name, and this one's our favorite of the moment: Grumpy Bulldog. This pub is in the works in the old Red Star Tavern space near Tango in downtown Naperville. Stay tuned for an opening date.
MORE RECENT OPENINGS
Everyone in Schaumburg had an opinion about The Bamboo Room: They either lived and died by it -- or swore they'd never set foot in it. Just last fall, the defunct Bamboo Room was bought and revamped by NoChance Productions, the owners of city spot Cortland's Garage. Now they've gutted the place and relaunched it as Heat Nightclub. "No more tiki!' says NoChance's Kate Burke Thompson, who tells us that locals should expect to be disoriented. The bars have been swapped all around, and the open kitchen has been walled over and lined with bottle-service booths that face the dance floor. The palm trees have given way to a sleek blue and red color scheme, while the bartenders serve up martinis with themed names such as Voltage and Spark (both $9). KISS FM's Special K will broadcast his Club Kiss program on-site every Thursday, while on Friday and Saturday nights, in-house video DJs spin tunes and music videos on giant projection screens. In addition to separate rooms for private parties, there's also a quieter lounge area away from the beats and lights.
The owners of Amber in downtown Westmont have debuted a second gem of a restaurant, Topaz, now open in the Burr Ridge Village Center. Wine cases lit with a golden glow, an "open" kitchen encased in glass and curvy booths upholstered in graphic orange-and-black fabric all contribute to a stunning interior. Lunch offers a host of salads and sandwiches, including a wasabi mayonaise-slatered salmon sandwich ($13) and the namesake Topaz Club, which tops turkey and ham with orange-cranberry relish and brie ($14). For dinner, expect steak and seafood dishes, plus hearty gems like double-cut pork chops with blue cheese-potato gratin, granny apples and a rosemary-apple cider reduction ($26). Check out what we thought of their Sunday brunch -- and keep your eyes on the still-in-the-works covered patio for 100, set to open Memorial Day weekend.
Beloved Forest Park restaurant La Piazza has closed, but Chef Gaetano de Benedetto has popped up again just down the street at his new venture, Gaetano's. De Benedetto tells us that La Piazza grew too large for his taste after its expansion. "It was huge and it didn't make any sense for me. It was like a factory," he says. So this spot -- which he's the sole owner of -- will top out at 60 seats. Though he'll still proffer a few La Piazza favorites, like his gorgonzola-shrimp puff pastry, his mozzarella balloon salad and chicken cooked under a brick, he plans to switch up the menu much more often based on what he picks up at the local market. Heck, he'll even keep tofu in stock so he can whip up a vegan degustation, if that's what you fancy.
Barleycorn in the 'burbs
The first suburban outpost of John Barleycorn debuted in March with what looked like all of Schaumburg there to celebrate, from ready-to-party post-grads to unwinding-after-work dudes in matching corporate polos. This place can only be described as huge: It's a two-story brick behemoth plopped down on the corner of American Lane and National Parkway just west of Woodfield Mall, so new you can still spot plenty of construction fencing and dirt piles throughout the lot. The main floor is split into a bar and a dining room; head up an grand staircase near the back and you'll see a huge dance floor bordered by three bars, a stage and a dozen booths decked out for bottle service. So, suburbanites: We want to know what you think. Would you get bottle service in Schaumburg, or do you just want knock back a couple beers? Be among the first to post your own review.
Sweet stuff in Naperville
Some attention-getting chains have opened outposts in the new Freedom Commons complex located near I-88 and Freedom Boulevard in Naperville. Check out the recently opened Morton's Steakhouse as well as White Chocolate Grill, an upscale eatery with current locations in Phoenix and Las Vegas. Menu highlights range from tomato-gin soup and a spit-roasted turkey French dip sandwich to crab-topped mahi mahi. And with a name like that, we expect some killer desserts -- luckily, though the dessert menu is brief, it delivers with picks such as white-chocolate raspberry cheesecake, white-chocolate banana cream pie with graham-cracker crust and French white-chocolate bread pudding (all $7.50).
A chic post-movie stop in Warrenville
Spats, a new bar near AMC Cantera theater, will offer movie-goers a post-show landing pad that's a touch more sophisticated than, say, nearby Buffalo Wild Wings or Rock Bottom, with a modernized Prohibition-era theme. High-top tables and a long bar back-lit in changing colors contribute to the chic surrounds, and live music -- from dueling pianos to jazz bands -- will be a staple on Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday nights. Click here for our recent review.
More to nosh on in Geneva
We just got wind from the owners over at hip brunch cafe Nosh that in May, they'll be adding Friday night dinners to their usual lineup of breakfast and lunch. They're also planning to debut courtyard seating and a refreshed spring/summer menu.
Brunch in FRG
Cute and contemporary Brunch Cafe opened its doors in February in Fox River Grove, filling the void in these parts for breakfast that's a bit more updated than your neighborhood pancake house. You'll find plenty of breakfast basics, but we're more drawn to the decadent twists on the staples, like white chocolate-raspberry waffles, tiramisu blintzes, Nutella and pecan-stuffed crepes and pancake flights. Savory options include an avocado-topped breakfast quesadilla, sausage patty sliders and potato skins filled with scrambled eggs, ham, peppers and cheddar cheese. The only thing missing is a mimosa or bloody mary, but sadly, there's no liquor served here. Libations are limited to coffee, tea, cappuccino and juices. Check out our review here.
Union opens in Evanston
Union Pizzeria has had Evanstonians buzzing since its opening in late February. Housed in a stunning historic building that used to be a car showroom, glassy floor-to-ceiling windows fill the space where garage doors once stood. We love how this place looks like a converted loft, with cracked walls revealing bits of exposed brick and an impressively high arched ceiling criss-crossed with wooden beams. The centerpiece of the semi-open kitchen is a massive wood-burning soapstone oven, fired up to 750 degrees to cook rustic pizzas with toppings like lamb sausage and eggplant. The staff dubs the pies "neo-Neopolitan" in style; they're made with a double-zero grade organic flour -- so fine it's almost talc-like, we're told -- but don't feature the wet center that traditional Neopolitan pies have. Along with a collection of hot and cold small plates (Note: they're pretty small) the menu also features one larger "daily plate," ranging from duck ragout with polenta to semolina gnocchi to lasagna. Between the dining room, a 25-seat bar and a lounge-y couch-filled area near the entrance, the whole place seats around 100. We dine there and pitted it against nearby spot Omaggio. Click here to see how they measured up.
Jerry's in Winnetka
Chic catering and private party venue Corner Cooks expanded next door to open Jerry's, a contemporary American spot. The daytime menu is short and sweet, tailored for the ladies-who-lunch crowd, while the dinner menu is all about whimsical, sharable options. "It's fun to taste lots of different stuff," says owner Betsy Simson, who named the spot after her dad Jerry. "It's not fun to get one heavy thing and be stuck eating it all." Sharable eats include a shrimp lollipop with sweet chili sauce, salmon-avocado sashimi tucked into wonton cups and a daily risotto "bomb." The mini desserts (dubbed "sweet plates by the taste") are a brilliant idea: They range from an apple sachet with caramel sauce to a spoonful of creme brulee to strawberries with bittersweet chocolate fondue, and cost just $2 or $3 a pop -- or $18 to sample the entire lineup.
NEWS BITES
Closings, moves & other whisperings
Fahrenheit, one of the most anticipated suburban restaurant openings of 2007, has closed.
Joy Yee's in Evanston has closed.
Front Street Cocina has a new location in the works on Third Street in Geneva, aiming for a mid-to-late summer opening.
New Rebozo in Oak Park is open after being closed for remodeling.
Italian deli L'Appetito in Glenview has morphed into Trattoria Belluno, a full-service eatery serving family recipes. For more on the hearty menu, click here.
International additions in Geneva
Geneva's main strip has welcomed some internationally inflected newbies this winter. Sergio's Cantina proffers authentic Mexican eats in the long-vacant Potter's Place space. Formerly located in downtown St. Charles, Bistro Thai, popped up down the river on Geneva's main strip in early December. Here you'll find the same made-to-order traditional Thai cuisine in a chic bistro atmosphere, complete with lantern-like globe lights, modern furniture and an eye-catching, wave-like lighting sculpture covering the ceiling.
If you build it, they will come
>>We've spotted some in-the-works shopping complexes in the northwest 'burbs -- and we all know that means new restaurants are on the way, too. Fieldstone Place is in its super-early stages (as in, there's just a sign there) between Schick and Army Trail Roads in Bartlett. Moving along at a faster pace is The Arboretum of South Barrington, a strip mall of upscale retailers and an outpost of Ruth's Chris Steakhouse, aiming to open in Fall 2008 at Barrington and Higgins Roads.
Have you heard something we haven't? Tell us about your favorite new (or old!) spots for eating and drinking.
Metromix special contributor Terri Mooney contributed to this story.
