Joy Yee Noodle Plus

Sushi and Taiwanese shaved ice are the latest additions to the Joy Yee family

Their eats: When we first learned that Chicago-area noodle juggernaut Joy Yee would be expanding yet again, this time with a second Chinatown Square location, we were puzzled. With one there already, plus outposts in University Village, Evanston and Naperville, were so many pad Thai and bubble tea desires really still going unmet?

But there was a twist: This Joy Yee, which opened about a month ago, isn't serving the standard chow fun and sesame chicken. Instead, it's focused on Japanese and Vietnamese fare, with a crowded lineup of sushi, yakitori, teriyaki and noodle soups both Japanese (various udon, soba and ramen preparations) and Vietnamese (pho).

Though there's much more than fish on the menu, the space screams "sushi bar," with a long counter along one wall, semi-communal six-seat tables occupying most of the first-floor dining room (you'll get your own if it's not crowded or your party is large, otherwise be prepared to share), and shimmering mosaic tiles covering the walls. There's also a funky underground koi pond-really more of a winding stream, as it runs the length of the small dining room-covered with plexiglass so you can walk right over the mottled gold and white fish as they swim to and fro, oblivious to the sushi chef just feet away.

Maki prices skew a bit high, but most rolls include a generous eight pieces. Apart from the usual suspects (California, Rainbow, spicy tuna/salmon/ebi, etc.), there's a hefty selection of more original creations such as the mango-topped Islander ($9) and the Special Hamachi ($15), a shrimp tempura-cilantro roll topped with torched hamachi, orange tobiko and lightly pickled jalapeno slices.

Round out your meal with an appetizer of Peking duck buns ($8), mantou pockets stuffed with squares of hoisin-glazed duck and thinly shaved scallions, or a dessert of Taiwanese shaved ice. The huge tub of sweetened ice ($5.50) comes piled high with sweet red or green beans (or a mix) and your choice of three toppings from a lineup that includes fresh fruits, Oreos, coconut, chewy mochi (glutinous rice balls) and more.

Your drinks: You'll find the largest nearby liquor selection at Binny's Beverage Depot, a short jaunt north by car. If you're focusing on sushi, wine manager Don Sheil recommends a bottle of Sokol Blosser Evolution ($12.99), an off-dry white blend with lush ripe tropical fruit notes. For something with more body and slightly less acidity than the Evolution, try a pinot gris from Willamette Valley, Ore., producer Elk Cove Vineyards ($16.99). Both bottles are available chilled. Joy Yee Noodle Plus does not charge a corkage fee.

M. Kathleen Pratt is the Metromix dining producer. kpratt@tribune.com