No doubt about it: “Local” is the dining buzzword of the year—maybe even the decade. But in some cases, “local” still means hundreds of miles away. Not so with these Chicago restaurants, where chefs are looking no farther than their own back yards for flavor. Whether it’s a few fresh herbs or some serious produce, it doesn’t get more local than this.
Anteprima
Chef Kaminsky Thomas (pictured) regularly visits his garden, a small but prodigious patch just behind this Andersonville restaurant’s cute patio that cranks out tomatoes, zucchini, swiss chard, mustard greens, arugula and a long list of herbs.
Eat it: All manner of herbs make it into the pastas and garnish the grilled meats (think torn mint on sizzling lamb) that make up Anteprima’s rustic Italian menu, but the real showstopper is a simple but assertive just-picked arugula salad dressed with a sardine and extra-virgin olive oil dressing and shaved ricotta salata ($8).
Fiddlehead Cafe
When chef Joe Cizek wants to add something fresh and local to his menu, he heads over to the community garden where he has a small plot and picks a few garlic chives, micro-greens and other herbs.
Eat it: The menu changes often, but Cizek tries to incorporate something from his garden into at least one dish nightly. A recent example: grilled salmon with fennel and coriander seeds next to carrot risotto topped with a delicate, just-picked herb salad tossed in sweet Dijon vinaigrette ($24).
Old Town Brasserie
Chef Roland Liccioni is an avid gardener, growing things like zucchinis and shiso (that bitter green leaf found on sushi platters) in the garden of his suburban home. He hauls baskets of produce to the kitchen of his Old Town spot during the season and incorporates fresh- picked items into his celebrated French fare whenever possible.
Eat it: Liccioni’s go-to preparation is an appetizer of tender zucchini blossoms stuffed with a delicate shitake mushroom mousse ($11).
Uncommon Ground on Devon
When Helen and Mike Cameron decided to open Uncommon Ground on Devon, they had more in mind than just a second location. The building’s sprawling rooftop features an entirely organic garden that will put out seasonal produce like heirloom tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, beans, hardier greens, herbs and edible flowers. The space also has beehives for collecting fresh honey and, when finished, will serve as a classroom for amateur gardeners.
Eat it: The garden isn’t entirely finished and the menu isn’t totally planned, but expect healthy seasonal dishes and abundant vegetable offerings, including the Sunshine Salad ($12), which will include whatever is coming in or going out of season.
Fred Schlatter is a Metromix special contributor. metromix@tribune.com
Updated Oct. 31, 2008.
