Chicago's frozen yogurt madness

Take your licks from this new batch of fro-gurt specialists

By Fred Schlatter

April 21, 2008

Chicago's frozen yogurt madness
Berry Chill: Yogurt chic comes to Chicago

There was a time when frozen dessert meant your choice of fatty ice cream or one of those shudder-inducing sherbet-stuffed hollowed-out oranges. These days, treats feature closely guarded proprietary formulas, live bacteria, National Yogurt Association creds and, lest we forget we are talking about, Fruity Pebbles. Here’s a guide to help you navigate the latest in fro-yo.

Berry Chill (click for hours | address | maps)

What's the idea? This River North storefront hopes to catch the attention of hustling 9-to-5ers with lounge decor and state-of-the-art kiosk sales technology: order, swipe, receive frozen goodness.

Who's behind the counter? Mike Farah, a one-time commodities trader, got together with the best dairy people he could source to manufacture his blend of natural, active culture-rich frozen yogurt.

Who's addicted already?
Mornings see a harried, late-to-work crowd; lunchtime brings a swarm of corporate types. Teens and young professionals stop in through the afternoon. But with a 4 a.m. license, you’ll find post-clubbers looking for a place to cool down on the weekends.

The skinny on health claims: These dense swirls are certified by the National Yogurt Association. Not only is the yogurt packed with live active cultures; it’s lactose-free.

Top it off with ...: Besides freshly diced fruit and your fave cereals (Fruity Pebbles outsell the rest), look for local products such as chocolates from Sarah’s candies & Pastries and granola from Milk and Honey.

Prices: $2.99 (small with no toppings) to $8.49 (flavored large with three toppings)

Starfruit (click for hours | address | maps)
What's the idea?  This Wicker Park newbie stands out for using kefir—a creamy, drinkable yogurt-like beverage. Get it frozen, in a parfait or blended into towering smoothies.

Who's behind the counter? Morton Grove-based Lifeway Foods—the self-claimed largest distributor of kefir and kefir products in the U.S.—is the muscle behind this slick operation.

Who's addicted already? Pregnant women and young mothers who’ve caught wind of the health benefits of pro-biotics have been populating store during the day. A hip, younger set moves in at night.

The skinny on health claims: Kefir is loaded with more than 10 kinds of probiotics (live and active cultures that purportedly assist the body’s systems), whereas most yogurt only has three kinds. Kefir’s also typically lower in fat and carbs, and higher in calcium, fiber and protein, than yogurt.

Top it off with ...:
The frozen variety comes in plain or pomegranate (or a pretty swirl) and toppings range from crushed candies and cereal to fresh fruit; there more flavors for parfaits and smoothies. Our pick: tart goji berries.

Prices: Cups go for $3-$5; smoothies for $4-$7.

Yoberri (click for hours | address | maps)

What's the idea? This tidy, tiny Lakeview store aims to provide an alternative to fattening desserts, insisting that health and enjoyment aren’t exclusive.

Who's behind the counter? Kimberly Smith, 21, is the fro-gurt force behind this spot. She fell in love with what she says was perfectly balanced yogurt while in Florence, Italy, and wanted to recreate it here.

Who's addicted already? Neighborhood folk flock here on weekends, but during the week it’s back-to-back moms and strollers.

The skinny on health claims: Live and active cultures in the yogurt assist with the typical host of minor maladies, but the real benefit might be for weight watchers: Cups and smoothies are sufficient enough to replace meals, or at least stand in as a healthy snack.

Top it off with ...: Keep it healthy with fruit—plump blackberries, diced mango and juicy lychee, or up the crunch (and the calories) with breakfast cereals, Oreos, granola and almonds

Prices: $2.50 (naked small) to $6.75 (large with three toppings)

Red Mango (coming to Evanston mid-May; click for details)

Who's behind the counter? This 6-year-old rapidly expanding chain coming to Evanston (and Naperville) is the darling of LA fashionistas. It’s manufactured by licensed dairy plants and shipped to stores to guarantee quality.

Who's behind the counter? President and CEO Dan Kim always has been an entrepreneur. He’s also a health fanatic, so the idea for a healthy dessert franchise was a natural fit.

Who's addicted already? Apart from study breakin’ Northwestern kids, Kim predicts his customers will be health-conscious, progressive consumers.

The skinny on health claims: Kim points out that any yogurt can have live cultures, but what’s important is density. Red Mango’s boasts 400 million live cultures per gram—that’s some four times the National Yogurt Association requirement for ordinary yogurt.

Top it off with ...: Options are plentiful, from fresh fruit to commercial cereals. Kim suggests a medium original topped with fresh strawberries and graham crackers for a cake-like experience.
Prices: $2.50 (small, unadorned original) to $8 (large green tea with three toppings)



Fred Schlatter is a Metromix special contributor. metromix@tribune.com

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